Our slow travel series explores how you can take more mindful journeys by train, boat, bus, or bike – with tips on how to reach your no-fly destination and what to see and do along the way. Here, Rebecca Crowe explains how she explored the northern French region of Brittany and beyond using the extensive public transport network.
Visit Brittany, and you’ll feel like you’ve stepped back in time. Colorful timbered buildings, medieval forts, and worn cobblestone streets all but dare you to slow down and savor the details as you explore.
Before my journey, I knew next to nothing about Brittany. However, as a budget traveler eager to escape the crowds, the area’s numerous small towns—with their unique culinary heritage and history—intrigued me. Consequently, I set off on this sustainable adventure.
The Departure
Gateway to Brittany, the striking Gare de Rennes serves as a hub where you can catch a train, city bus, or long-distance coach. It’s filled with a mix of commuters, tourists using translation apps, and day-trippers glancing at departure boards.
The Journey
Trains in Brittany are typically double-decker, featuring plush seating and a pleasant atmosphere, often with café cars. Moreover, train travel tends to be a quiet and relaxing affair, allowing you to unwind as you absorb the scenic views.
However, riding the bus can feel akin to going on a school trip. The driver checks tickets and stores any large bags underneath. Although Wi-Fi might be unreliable on the bus, the cost of bus travel allows for extra savings—perfect for indulging in local pastries!
Brittany is packed with alluring destinations. On the way to popular Brest, a naval town in the far west, you might stop in charming St-Brieuc, known for its colorful streets and hiker-friendly coastal trails. Alternatively, hop on a train or bus to Quimper, celebrated for its majestic Gothic cathedral.
My first stop was the coastal town of Vannes, where half-timbered buildings and medieval ramparts create a picturesque fairy-tale atmosphere. The town beckoned with its local galette restaurants and breathtaking views.
Next, I headed to Mont St-Michel Bay. While the famous island, with its stunning abbey, resides in Normandy, the sweeping bay protecting it is shared with Brittany.
Given Mont St-Michel’s popularity, it’s wise to plan ahead for bus tickets. Exploring the island’s winding streets, laden with history, is well worth the crowds. Additionally, savoring fresh seafood caught right from the surrounding bay is a quintessentially French experience.
The Arrival
Arriving in various Breton towns can feel like an adventure in itself. Many have small train stations on the outskirts of their centers. Although these stations are functional, they are generally lacking in amenities.
Upon reaching Vannes, a quick 15-minute walk leads to the town center, which offers a wealth of exploration opportunities. In contrast, arrival at Mont Saint St-Michel requires a shuttle ride or a 3km walk from the bus stop.
All these logistics contribute to the sense of adventure. Walking into a town allows you to experience local life, from seniors enjoying coffee to children riding their bikes to school. Conversely, being dropped off in the town center immerses you in a sea of tourists, souvenir shops, and guide services bustling with activity.
How to Make It Happen
Tickets
Tickets from Rennes to Vannes start from €10, with routes to Mont St-Michel around €25. It’s easy to acquire tickets through the app or at the train station. During peak season, however, it’s advisable to secure tickets well in advance.
Food and Drink
While some trains feature a food and bar car, prices can be steep. Therefore, packing your own snacks and beverages is recommended, especially for bus trips.
Facilities
Most transport options offer Wi-Fi, but reliability can be an issue. For consistent connectivity, consider using an eSIM. There’s ample luggage storage, but restrooms may not always be in pristine condition.
Additional Tips
Bus journey times can vary significantly; some may arrive early, while others may be late. Consequently, always allow for extra time if you have subsequent travel plans.
