Discovering Culture and Heritage in Guadeloupe

Poet and author Nii Ayikwei Parkes discovered during a trip to Guadeloupe how the threads of his family’s British, West African, and Caribbean story intertwine.

A Family Gathering in Grande-Terre

Visiting Grande-Terre, the second-largest of the cluster of islands that make up Guadeloupe, I was thrilled to find that my Tante Armelle had organized a family gathering. It included her siblings, their children, and even her 100-year-old mother.

We were hosted by her older brother, whose beautiful home overlooks lush greenery. He welcomed us with the island’s signature cocktail, P’tit Punch, offering us a choice of superb rhums agricoles, including island favorites such as Reimonenq, Longueteau, and Damoiseau. As we sat down to eat, the dishes were an explosion of flavors: rice cooked with peas, fragrant sauces paired with Scotch-bonnet peppers, and well-cooked meat. This experience reminded me of my roots, bridging the gap between my Ghanian heritage and Caribbean culture.

A Shared Heritage

I felt a deep connection to my family’s history. My father, who lived in London, often ended his job application letters with a phrase meant to clarify his identity: “for the avoidance of confusion, I am a Black man.” This experience was not unique to him, as many individuals from Caribbean backgrounds faced similar challenges of identity and representation.

Reflecting on this, I realized that the name Parkes originated from a Jamaican ancestor who returned from Sierra Leone, continuing a rich lineage that hinted at shared histories across the diaspora.

Discovering the Archives of Basse-Terre

Upon my arrival in Guadeloupe, I was embraced by family I had never met before. After a lovely reunion, I set out to Basse-Terre to explore the local archives. With no specific goal in mind, I soon learned how these archives held crucial connections to my past. I discovered that Basse-Terre was captured by a British expeditionary force in the 18th century, largely composed of African men, marking an essential chapter in my family’s narrative.

Bridging Cultures

As I delved deeper into my roots, I saw how Guadeloupe served as a key link, allowing me to understand my family’s journey. This island, steeped in history and culture, has brought forth connections that both surprised and delighted me.

Conclusion

In conclusion, my exploration of Guadeloupe not only enriched my understanding of the Caribbean but also deepened my connection to my African heritage. This journey serves as a reminder of the importance of understanding our histories and the intertwining narratives that span across continents.