Cartier Panthère, a new release from luxury publisher Assouline, looks back at Cartier’s iconic use of the panther in its jewelry, accessories, and objects d’art. This striking ring, crafted from white gold, emeralds, and onyx, features an impressive 545 diamonds, showcasing the artistry that has defined this brand for decades.
According to Pierre Rainero, Cartier’s Image, Style and Heritage director, figurative pieces like this were typically associated with actresses and prostitutes before the 1940s. This historical context contributes to the allure and charm of the panther motif.
Celebrity Influence on Cartier’s Panther Motif
Wallis Simpson, the Duchess of Windsor, was one of the early proponents of Cartier’s panther motif. Her collection included this 1952 bracelet, which sold for £4.5 million ($7 million) at a Sotheby’s auction in 2010.
The Evolution of Design
This 1949 brooch, made of platinum, white gold, diamonds, and an impressive Kashmir sapphire, was the second three-dimensional panther piece that Cartier made for the Duchess of Windsor.
Modern Creations and Continued Legacy
This medallion, made last year, is rendered in white gold, diamonds, emeralds, and onyx.
Artistic Representation
This watercolor by famed French fashion illustrator George Barbier was run as a Cartier magazine ad throughout the 1920s.
The Craftsmanship Behind the Panther
A preparatory sketch for a panther jewel.A panther necklace of platinum, diamonds, fine pearls, sapphires, black jade, onyx, and yellow beryl.A watch-cuff bracelet made from white gold and set with 937 brilliant-cut diamonds, two emeralds, and onyx in 2013.A two-headed gold bangle from the early 90s.Mexican actress María Félix seen here wearing a custom two-headed Cartier panther bangle in 1967.
