Experiencing Colombian Soccer: The Clasico Paisa

“Don’t go there,” “Be careful,” “Avoid” – these are words I never expected to hear before attending a sporting event. However, when planning a trip to Colombia, it’s challenging for people to shake the country’s violent past.

Like many travelers, I strive to catch a sporting event during my journeys. Therefore, when organizing my itinerary for Colombia, I ensured that visiting a soccer game at Medellín’s Estadio Atanasio Girardot was a priority.

As my trip approached, I discovered that a match would feature two of Medellín’s favorite teams – Atlético Nacional and Deportivo Independiente Medellín (DIM).

Having secured 22 domestic titles, Nacional stands as the younger yet more successful club, while the long-suffering DIM club is perennially striving to catch up. These teams have been fierce rivals in the Categoría Primera A for over 70 years.

The intense rivalries extend beyond the field and into the stands, dividing the city.

This was the atmosphere I was willingly stepping into. When I spoke to a local shop owner about the upcoming matchup, he advised that I would enjoy the match, yet cautioned me to stay clear of the die-hard fans positioned at either end of the stadium, where things tend to get rowdy.

Nonetheless, he assured me that attending Clasico Paisa – the special name given to this rivalry match – would offer an experience unlike any other. Tickets can be purchased at official club stores, outside the stadium, and at local hostels. Prices range from $10 to $20 USD.

Some Colombians suggested I skip the match due to the rivalry’s intensity. However, the prevailing advice was to go ahead and enjoy the spectacle.

Gameday Atmosphere

Despite my initial apprehension regarding potential tensions escalading into hostile behavior among fans, I was pleasantly surprised to experience a lively and welcoming atmosphere around the stadium on gameday.

Streams of supporters donned either the traditional green-and-white striped jerseys of Nacional or the red uniforms of DIM, creating a vivid tapestry of color and excitement in the streets.

Various stalls offered drinks and snacks, enhancing the festive vibe, as groups of fans joyfully chanted soccer anthems all around me.

A visible police presence lined the streets, which alleviated my concerns. After purchasing some beers for under $1 USD each, I watched as the crowd continued to swell. As kickoff approached, the noise crescendoed, and my heart began to race with anticipation.

Entering the stadium, I was met with an electric atmosphere. More than 40,000 fans roared as if their lives depended on the match.

It was an unforgettable moment.

The excitement was palpable as ardent fans waved flags and unveiled massive banners honoring their teams. Nacional ultimately secured a 5-2 victory; however, the significant occurrence was that for the first time, supporters of both teams were dispersed throughout other sections of the stadium, alongside the ultras at the north and south ends.

This would have seemed unthinkable years before; however, this development reflects how Medellín and Colombia are moving beyond their tumultuous past. Consequently, travelers like me can enjoy a genuinely immersive Colombian experience.