Discover Copenhagen’s Surprising Food Paradise

Tivoli just turned 180, and celebrations involve visiting Michelin chefs, new permanent restaurants, and summer farmers’ markets.

31 May 2023

Last month, on a day that can only be described as peak-spring, I found myself in the heart of Copenhagen, sipping Champagne and slurping oysters. Specifically, Ruinart Champagne and Gillardeau, the “Rolls Royce” of oysters – so fancy their shells come stamped with a logo. However, I wasn’t at one of Copenhagen’s storied restaurants; I was at an amusement park. Surrounded by its many rides and flower-decked gardens, this felt like an unusual indulgence, but it served as the precursor to a 12-course tasting menu courtesy of one of Spain’s most exciting dining venues.

Tivoli Gardens, Copenhagen’s top tourist attraction, is celebrated for its romantic gardens, century-old wooden roller coaster, and, come dusk, its transformation into an illuminated wonderland. This grande dame of amusement parks has been attracting visitors since the 19th century, making it the second-oldest operating park in the world. What’s less known is that it’s also a compelling dining destination. “Great food has always been in the DNA of Tivoli Gardens, almost since its opening in 1843,” Mikkel Ustrup, Senior Director at Tivoli High End, remarked. “As early as the 1920s, Tivoli was hosting culinary festivals.”

As far as standard amusement-park fare goes, Tivoli excels with particular flair – liquorice soft-serve, anyone? Yet, among its rides and food stalls, there exist some of the most respected high-end restaurants in the city. Highlights include Fru Nimb with its vast smørrebrød menu offering 50 different kinds, the historic Grøften which has maintained its ambiance since 1874, and the brasserie at the luxury hotel Nimb, serving seasonal French classics alongside an unbeatable view of Tivoli’s open-air stage. Furthermore, since the summer of 2021, Tivoli has hosted a slew of Michelin-starred heavyweights like Copenhagen’s AOC and Koks from the Faroe Islands at pop-up dining events, contributing to its modern food landscape.

This year marks a significant milestone for Tivoli as it celebrates its 180th anniversary. Amid a myriad of festivities, a third season of pop-ups commenced with Suculent, a Barcelona-based restaurant known for its ambitious, flavor-first menu and lively atmosphere. For the month of May, head chef Antoni Romero (an alumnus of elBulli) and his team set up at the Japanese Pagoda, featuring a dining room designed by Fritz Hansen adorned with Hans Wegner chairs and a large-scale, suspended sculpture by paper artist Veronica Hodges. It’s an extraordinary setting, framed by the Dæmonen rollercoaster on one end and a tranquil lake on the other. During this culinary journey, guests were treated to modern interpretations of classic Mediterranean and Spanish dishes, adapted to feature seasonal Nordic ingredients.

What Not to Miss in 2023

• In June, chef Andreas Krolik from the two-star Michelin restaurant Lafleur in Frankfurt will showcase his vegetable-forward gastronomy, emphasizing sustainability and complex flavors. (2 June-2 July)
• In August, a pop-up will honor culinary legend Auguste Escoffier with a classic French cuisine menu, led by Nicolas Sale and Yves Le Lay, who will pay tribute to Escoffier’s love for Tivoli Gardens.
• This winter, the Japanese Pagoda will welcome Restaurant Knystaforsen (one Michelin star), focusing on dishes made from ingredients found in the wild and cooked over an open fire. (17 November-31 December)
• Kilden, Tivoli’s new green-cuisine restaurant, combines gourmet dining with sustainability, offering innovative Danish-French vegetarian options.
• Crowd-favorite Fru Nimb has a fresh menu with modern interpretations of cherished Danish classics, some dating back to the park’s inception.
• Keep an eye out for upcoming summer produce markets, wine tasting-led dinners, live cooking events, concerts, ballets, and dazzling fireworks as part of Tivoli’s 180th birthday celebrations.