Dining Recommendations from Dan Cox in Cornwall

In 2017, Dan Cox bought a 120-acre farm in southeast Cornwall, cooking up grand plans to turn the land into a totally self-sustaining, hyper-seasonal restaurant. “I decided I wanted to be a chef when I was a kid, on school holidays when I would visit my grandma in The Vale of Glamorgan in Wales,” he says. “These rural landscapes inspired me and have stuck with me throughout my culinary career.” Dan won the prestigious Roux Scholarship and cut his teeth working at the Michelin-starred Simon Rogan group, but the great British countryside was calling. So he made tracks for Cornwall.

“Cornwall has been producing some incredible produce. The food scene is ever-emerging for that reason,” he says. “When people were forced to go on holiday in the UK during the pandemic, Cornwall naturally became a place everyone flocked to, and I think the food scene has responded to that in a way. I wanted to return to a rural environment where I could build, learn and create something. I missed going out into the farm myself and having an immediate connection to the product.”

It took five years to open Crocadon, his debut restaurant, which is set on the farmland. Menus here change regularly to reflect the week’s harvest and might spotlight confit sheep, preserved courgette, chicory, sweet clover, and whey caramel tart.

“When I first took over the land, we worked around the clock to restore the soil with cover crops, introduce cattle and sheep to the land, renovate multiple outhouses, and establish an onsite microbrewery and ceramics studio,” Dan recalls. “We started supplying a small group of restaurants with our produce. Five years later, we were ready to open the restaurant.”

The restaurant dream may have taken half a decade to realize. However, less than a year later, Dan and the team were recognized by the Michelin Guide for the UK and Ireland when they were awarded a Green Star, a nod to low-intervention, ultra-sustainable cooking in the most delicious way.

Having spent six years in Cornwall, Dan has become rooted in the county’s better-than-ever food scene. “The coastline is longer than anywhere else in the UK, and the combination of the climate, land, and sea makes for some of the country’s best produce,” he explains. “One of the main reasons that restaurateurs set up shop here is because of the high-quality produce. It’s an exciting time to be living – and eating – in Cornwall.”

Dan Cox’s Top Restaurant Recommendations in Cornwall

Little Palais, St Ives

“This little spot serves great natural wine and has a great soundtrack. It’s one of the team’s favorites.”

Who comes here? “It’s a bottle shop and natural wine bar, so it’s great for people passing through pre-supper, but also a place to spend the whole evening.”

Best table in the restaurant? “The corner seat by the window looks right out onto the sea and the action on the port.”

Best time to come? “About 7pm when the sun starts to go down.”

Dish to order? “It’s a small plates restaurant, and dishes change with the season – right now, you can’t go wrong with the crab Welsh Rarebit.”

Argoe, Newlyn

“This is a tiny, unpretentious fish restaurant. Richard Adams, the owner, built the restaurant himself – his dad is in the fish business, so he has access to whatever comes off the day boat.”

Who comes here? “It’s unpretentious and super relaxed and right on the water; they make anyone feel welcome whether visiting or a local.”

Best table in the restaurant? “Inside during winter, outside on the terrace in the summer – it looks right onto the sea.”

Best time to come? “Lunchtime in the summer when the terrace is open.”

The dish to order? “The seafood is all amazing, depending on what’s come in that day; spider crabs, Dover sole, everything and anything!”

The Standard Inn, Portscatho

“This pub’s newly opened and yet to do a summer season. It was opened by Simon Stallard who is also behind the Hidden Hut and Tavola.”

Who comes here? “Weekenders looking for a brilliant lunch or supper.”

Best table in the restaurant? “I’ve only visited in winter so far, it’s a cozy feeling on the inside with lots of original features.”

Best time to come? “This is a great spot for a long afternoon on a Sunday.”

The dish to order? “It has to be the Sunday lunch.”

Coombeshead, Lewannick

“Coombeshead is a farm-to-table restaurant, it’s a really immersive experience, perfect if you’re visiting for a special occasion.”

Who comes here? “Serious, curious foodies and people passionate about sustainability.”

Best table in the restaurant? “The dining room is beautiful, so any seat in the house.”

Best time to come? “Coombeshead also has rooms, so it’s great for an overnight stay.”

The dish to order? “Coombeshead has recently pivoted from a tasting menu format to now offering a more relaxed three-course menu. The dishes utilise in-house preserves, and lots of ingredients are cooked over fire. They also offer a delicious breakfast if you’re staying overnight.”

The Rod & Line pub, Saltash

“It’s a proper Cornish pub with great vibes – it’s our local.”

Who comes here? “Locals after an authentic boozer to while away an afternoon in.”

Best table in the restaurant? “It’s tiny so wherever you can get a seat.”

Best time to come? “On a day off, so you can spend a while.”

The dish to order? “Crab, lobster with chips on the side.”