The pandemic hasn’t been easy for the precarious profession of travel writing. However, as the world slowly loosens its shackles after 20 months of canceled contracts and frustrating false-starts, I’ve made it my job as a travel writer to get back on the road in search of spontaneity, inspiration, and a good story. My latest stop: the Dominican Republic.
Why the Dominican Republic?
My choice of destination wasn’t all chance and serendipity. Throughout the course of the pandemic, the Dominican Republic (DR), along with Mexico, has been one of the least restrictive nations in the world for travelers to enter and exit. Moreover, unlike Mexico where total deaths are edging toward 300,000, the Dominican Republic has navigated the vicissitudes of COVID-19 relatively smoothly. Entry requirements are relatively straightforward; in-country rules sensible without being overzealous, and at the time of travel, active cases were low. Nevertheless, as we know, the coronavirus situation can change very quickly, and the Pan-American Health Organization (PAHO) announced that new COVID-19 cases in the Dominican Republic have increased by over 40% in recent weeks.
As a travel writer, the Dominican Republic lured me with plenty of stories to tell. In the lead-up to the COP26 climate summit in Glasgow, I was keen to discover interesting eco-projects that attracted travelers beyond the mega-resorts. Fortuitously, the north coast possessed a slew of innovative ventures.
Planning a Trip from Canada
If there’s one lesson I’ve learned about travel in the time of coronavirus, it’s to check, double-check, and check again. Rules change frequently, cases can surge, and nuances differ from country to country. In previous years, all you needed to go on holiday was a passport and a boarding pass. However, in 2021, weary travelers must navigate a complex landscape of paperwork, expensive COVID tests, and extensive travel apps.
Employing an attention to detail that’s second nature to a guidebook writer, I prepared for my DR trip from my home in Canada by contacting the Dominican Embassy in Ottawa, the Dominican tourist board in Toronto, and the overwhelmed offices of Air Canada to ensure I hadn’t overlooked any potential challenges.
With no pre-trip COVID test necessary for residents of Canada, the paperwork ultimately boiled down to just two forms: a copy of a Dominican e-ticket (available online) to facilitate customs in the DR and printed proof of full vaccination to show my airline prior to boarding the plane.
Additionally, I needed to address the issue of insurance. While some holiday companies include special COVID insurance in their packages, as I was traveling independently, I opted to pay C$40 for ‘trip interruption’ coverage on top of my personal policy in case I had to quarantine during my stay.
Additional Checks on Arrival in the Dominican Republic
Having flown in the early days of the pandemic on nearly empty planes, I was surprised to find that both my Vancouver-Montreal and Montreal-Puerto Plata flights were almost full. Nevertheless, with the Canadian government mandating that all air passengers be masked and fully vaccinated, I brushed off any lingering anxiety as our Airbus 321 cruised smoothly toward Gregorio Luperón International Airport on the DR’s north coast. Dominican customs was a simple formality. With my passport stamped and bags scanned, I eagerly dashed into the arrivals hall where cheerful airport staff danced energetically to a merengue backbeat, clearly delighted to see tourists after nearly two years of minimal visitation.
Exploring Community Tourism Projects
I had arranged a taxi for the 20-minute ride to my accommodations at the Tubagua Eco-lodge, a rustic collection of chalets and huts positioned on the cusp of the Septentrional Mountains.
Constructed from palm thatch and local wood in the style of an indigenous village, the lodge is renowned for its exceptional home-cooked food and breathtaking views. With just eight simple rooms that utilize mountain breezes instead of air conditioning, masks were seldom necessary, particularly as there were only two other guests: a Swiss couple touring the country in a rental car.
The lodge owner, Tim Hall, generously connected me with a local guide named Juanín who navigated me through a network of emerging community tourism projects on the back of his motorbike. Riding pillion along the winding Ruta Panorámica, I visited a rehabilitated coffee plantation, a tiny shovel-and-pick amber mine, and a roadside workshop where an inventive Dominican artisan transformed old car tires into decorative flower baskets.
The Laid-Back Atmosphere of Cabarete
Following my stay at Tubagua, I made my way to the coast where I reserved budget-friendly lodging in the laid-back kite-surfing haven of Cabarete. Staying near a town for the first time meant I had to keep my mask readily accessible.
In the DR, face masks are mandatory in shops and public buildings. However, as life in the Caribbean is predominantly conducted outdoors, these regulations are not always strictly enforced. On one occasion, I was requested to show my proof of vaccination to enter a bank, but more often than not, I was allowed to enjoy semi-deserted alfresco restaurants with customers seated several tables apart.
I spent my final four days visiting an innovative aquaponics farm, exploring Cabarete’s extensive network of caves, and watching skilled kite-surfers gracefully glide over white-capped waves. While tourists are gradually returning to the DR post-COVID, there’s no significant influx yet, resulting in a wonderfully tranquil atmosphere.
Getting a PCR Test in the Dominican Republic
One of the persistent irritations of pandemic travel is how stringent re-entry regulations eat into your vacation time. Some countries only require easily obtainable rapid antigen tests for re-entry; however, as a resident of Canada, I was required to pay for a more expensive PCR test. As I wasn’t staying in a resort (which often organize tests onsite), I had to arrange logistics myself.
To streamline the process for tourists, the Dominican Republic has made COVID testing relatively accessible. The nearest clinic to my Cabarete lodging was 10 km away in Sosúa, offering tests for US$72 with results provided within 24 hours. The only caveat was that I needed to return to the clinic the next day to retrieve them.
It wasn’t as difficult as it seemed. Although Sosúa has less to offer than Cabarete, it boasts a lovely beach and an intriguing history: it was established by Jewish refugees fleeing the Nazis in 1940. A small museum and synagogue pay homage to their fascinating story.
An Effortless Journey
The Dominican Republic proved to be the most easygoing and bureaucratically lenient of the five countries I’ve visited since the world began to reopen. Upon departing from Gregorio Luperón Airport the following day, I found myself carrying an armful of documentation: a negative PCR test, proof of vaccination, DR exit e-ticket, ArriveCAN app (required for re-entry into Canada), passport, boarding pass, and Canadian residence card. Nevertheless, after navigating an obstacle course of security checks and a chorus of cheerful hasta luegos, I settled into the departure lounge, sipping a Bohemia beer and reflecting fondly on a fulfilling journey.
