Daufuskie Island: A Hidden Gem
Overview
Dirt roads and lonely beaches beckon travelers to an island frozen in time. Imagine an island with pristine beaches and vast forests, located less than a mile from one of the largest resort destinations on the East Coast. For decades, developers have eyed Daufuskie Island with plans to capitalize on its incredible beauty, yet they’ve mostly failed. Some blame it on access— the island is only reachable by boat— while others attribute it to local legends.
Daufuskie Island is a place where very little happens. When it does, word travels fast along the dusty roads that connect the fledgling resort communities with the 500-or-so year-round locals who have persisted here for generations, relying on farming, fishing, and ferries for subsistence. Look closely as you walk, pedal, or golf cart past the cabins in the woods, and you’ll see indigo blue handprints painted with evil eyes. These measures are taken by the local Gullah Geechee inhabitants—descendants of the enslaved people and freedmen who have farmed the island for two centuries—to ward off “boo hags,” evil spirits believed to slip into bed with slumbering locals.
Where to Stay
Maybe it’s the “boo hags” that keep Daufuskie Island so pristine. The ambitious beachfront Melrose Resort, a popular South Carolina vacation club in the 1990s, went bankrupt in 2009 and 2017—the property remains shuttered today, its once-grand inn slowly decaying despite horizon views across the Atlantic. On the island’s southern end, Bloody Point Golf Club & Resort suffered a similar fate and officially closed in March 2021 after a series of financial issues throughout the 2000s. Today, weeds grow on the once-popular luxury golf course.
However, it’s the island’s seemingly innate stubbornness to be developed that lends Daufuskie its charm. A project at Haig Point, a membership-only community located directly across from Hilton Head Island, has found success. Here, a 40-foot-tall lighthouse dating from 1873 has been converted into a luxurious rental, complete with a full kitchen and rocking chairs looking out over Calibogue Sound. Additionally, the 1910 Strachan Mansion offers four rooms for members and their guests. The exclusive Haig Point community also features an oceanfront golf course designed by Rees Jones, a tennis complex, and an equestrian center, with trail rides through the forest and on the beach. Two-night, three-day Discovery Experiences are available for those interested in learning more about membership, complete with overnight stays and several complimentary activities.
Moreover, outside of Haig Point, several vacation rentals and B&Bs, as well as home rentals available through VRBO and Airbnb, offer a taste of local life. At Freeport Marina, colorful, tiny cabins provide a weekend retreat with easy access to live music and cultural events. Furthermore, deeper into the island, it’s feasible to rent a marshfront home for about $200 per night.
What to Do
While cars are permitted on the island, they must travel by ferry, which costs $300 round-trip for the vehicle alone, and passengers must use a separate ferry. Therefore, Daufuskie Island is best explored by bicycle or golf cart. Cart rentals with Daufuskie Life start at $65 for eight hours. Island attractions include The Iron Fish Gallery, where sculptor Chase Allen crafts coastal images like stingrays and sea turtles into attractive wall hangings. Nearby, Silver Dew Winery has bottled its sweet elixirs since 1953, and the Daufuskie Island Distillery provides tours and tastings of their local rum.
To truly appreciate Daufuskie Island’s cultural history, consider taking a tour with local resident Sallie Ann Robinson. Her experience growing up on the island— including time spent as one of author Pat Conroy’s students— lends authenticity to the place that’s difficult to achieve on a self-guided visit. Tour stops include the Mary Fields School and the Oyster Union Society Hall, among others.
After a day of sightseeing, visitors can unwind with drinks and seafood by the water. At the island’s public landing, D’Fuskie’s Store and Eatery offers sunset views across the river alongside local cuisine. At Freeport Marina, guests can enjoy a local craft beer at the circular open-air bar, complemented by a basket of fried shrimp or soft-shell crabs before the scenic ferry ride back to the mainland. To enhance your stay, ensure that the shutters at your accommodation are painted blue before settling in for the night.