I could smell cedar even before I saw the cedarwood cabins, which formed a horseshoe around an idyllic lawn littered with cornhole and a giant Connect 4 set. That’s how you’re greeted at Dawn Ranch, an 81-key resort in Guerneville, California, shaded by more than 100 towering redwoods: the sweet, spicy, amber-rich scent of cedarwood.
My room presented like an egg-shell white cottage from the outside, but really, it felt more like a tree house, cozied up against a pair of redwoods. I passed through the separate living room to flop onto the bed and take it in. To my right, white-paned windows framed my own personal forest with bright green branches flopping lazily in the breeze. To my left, a seafoam green-tiled backsplash encircled the double-sided fireplace.
Dawn Ranch
- Dawn Ranch’s unique location puts guests about 20 minutes from the stunning Northern California coast and 20 minutes from wine tasting in Healdsburg.
- The spa features an outdoor glass-enclosed infrared sauna and alfresco cedarwood soaking tubs.
- The 81 cottages and cabins at Dawn Ranch are nestled among towering redwoods, making each room feel like a tree house.
- The resort has a dock on the Russian River, offers daily yoga or meditation practice, and provides complimentary bicycles for guests to explore the area.
For years, California hotels—from the SoCal desert towns to coastal enclaves in Northern California—have been striving to create an environment referred to as “California cozy.” Truly, I never actually knew what “California cozy” meant until I arrived at Dawn Ranch. This term perfectly encapsulates both the design of the resort and the feeling of sitting around the crackling fire pit on my first night, with a glass of pinot noir and a journal, while members of the hotel staff played music together.
Dawn Ranch isn’t a new hotel; it reopened last spring with refurbished cabins, a newly designed spa, and an updated restaurant. Previously, it was known as “Guerneville’s first gay resort, Fife’s,” as reported by iBestTravel contributor Matt Kirouac. Its rising popularity sparked a wave of LGBTQ-friendly businesses in the Sonoma County town, often referred to as the “Fire Island of wine country.” Teach Mayer, the general manager of Dawn Ranch, who also opened Marram Montauk, a 2022 Travel + Leisure It List winner by the same hospitality group, told me it is “where wine country meets the coast, and the redwoods meet the river.”
Guerneville is a unique Sonoma town that is equidistant between the award-winning wineries in Healdsburg and the Northern California coast. It’s 14 miles to Flowers Vineyards & Winery and 14 miles to Goat Rock Beach in Sonoma Coast State Park. Additionally, it is surrounded by the iconic redwood trees and is just a 15-minute bike ride to Colonel Armstrong, a 1,400-year-old tree that attracts visitors from all over the world (don’t worry, Dawn Ranch supplies bicycles). The hotel is also situated directly on the Russian River, featuring a dock for kayaking, tubing, or just enjoying a refreshing dip in the water.
The Rooms
It’s choose-your-own-adventure accommodations at Dawn Ranch. There are cottages and chalets, each featuring a full bedroom and a separate living room. Mine was a Meadow Chalet, located near the main lawn, and by the Russian River, while the Adirondack chair-flanked fire pit is surrounded by a variety of Creekside Cottages. “We installed larger windows to provide expansive views of the beautiful landscaping and the closely surrounding redwoods,” explains Brian Smith, one of the designers of Dawn Ranch, who has previously worked on lodges in upstate New York, such as Inness. “In the center of these buildings, we constructed a two-foot thick wall, which contains a double-sided fireplace that serves both the living room and the bedroom.”
Farther into the 22-acre property, along Fife’s Creek, you’ll find six seasonal glamping tents, which operate until the end of October. The glamping tents share a communal restroom and shower area, stocked similarly to the cottages with premium Le Labo products. Couples might prefer the smaller one-room cabins lining the main lawn, while families can choose two-bedroom bungalows with a full kitchen. However, the highlight is Olive’s Cottage, a two-bedroom space often claimed as the honeymoon suite by couples reserving the entire resort for weddings.
Food and Drink
Similar to many of Sonoma’s top fine-dining establishments, the dishes and pours at Dawn Ranch’s restaurant come with a captivating story. On my first night, I chose a Wild Hog pinot noir, not only due to its regional acclaim but also because I learned that each week, owners Daniel and Marion Schoenfeld drive down the hill to deliver wine cases from Fort Ross. The restaurant, which offers dining both inside The Lodge and on The Patio, is overseen by Argentinian chefs Fernando Trocca and Juliana Thorpe. Trocca founded Sucre, a World’s 50 Best restaurant, and Thorpe is an alum of Napa’s Michelin three-star award-winning Meadowood. Some dishes highlight South American flavors, including yellowfin tiradito and shrimp moqueca, alongside well-executed new American cuisine. A key piece of advice: don’t miss breakfast. Trocca and Thorpe’s impressive buffet of baked goods is truly unparalleled—the Paraguayan chiapas, a gluten-free cheesy bread, is compelling enough to warrant a stay at Dawn Ranch.
Experiences and Amenities
The dock at Dawn Ranch, located right on the Russian River, is open seasonally—guests have access to kayaks and river tubes. (“My favorite spot is just hanging out on the new dock and having the opportunity to dive into the Russian River or paddle in the kayaks,” says Atit Jariwala, the hotel’s CEO.) Also complimentary for guests are Retrospec Cruiser Bicycles, available for rides to the redwoods or around the town, Swarovski Optiks binoculars for wildlife spotting, Fender Guitars for campfire entertainment, and HigherDose infrared sauna mats. I borrowed a HigherDose mat from the front desk, which I would plug in each night after dinner, enjoying its warmth in front of the fire—this is the essence of California cozy.
Each morning, either Mayer or spa manager Heidi Bartholomew leads complimentary yoga or meditation sessions. There are also various on-site activities available for an additional fee, such as foraging sessions with Dawn Ranch chefs, flower-pressing workshops, and private dining under string lights in the stunning Kitchen Garden. I participated in a scent-making class hosted by Napa Valley parfumeur FLWR, where I crafted a lovely lavender room spray with guidance from FLWR’s owner, Jess Mennella.
The Spa at Dawn Ranch
I wouldn’t label this place a typical spa; it truly embodies a wellness haven. Firstly, it’s an actual house with a stunning wood-paneled living room and a massive green velvet sofa facing a farm table and fireplace. After indulging in a deep-tissue massage, I enjoyed sampling The Spa at Dawn Ranch’s extensive tea selection. They offer a tea chest, akin to a bar cart, complete with four glass jars filled with loose-leaf teas and speckled beige mugs. Each selection, from chamomile to ginger, was a delight, where I would retreat to the deep sofa framed by large windows overlooking the courtyard.
As if this experience weren’t already stunning enough, I continued my relaxation in the outdoor, glass-enclosed infrared sauna, followed by an alfresco bathing session in a cedarwood tub filled by Bartholomew, complemented with freshly foraged flowers. Soaking in the aromatic water beneath a canopy of trees was the most carefree moment I’ve experienced all year.
Accessibility and Sustainability
While the pathways at Dawn Ranch consist of rocks and gravel, many sections are designed to be wheelchair-accessible due to mesh traction embedded beneath the rocks. Four rooms are ADA-compliant. In terms of sustainability, the resort avoids single-use plastic water bottles and grows a part of the restaurant’s produce in its on-site Kitchen Garden—where compost is used abundantly without pesticides. Dawn Ranch also utilizes its own well water to irrigate the entire property.
Location
With quick access to the coast, Sonoma’s finest wineries, the Armstrong Redwoods State Natural Preserve, and the Russian River, it’s easy to overlook the charm of Guerneville itself. A local favorite for dining is a taco truck situated in the Safeway parking lot, where live music sets a lively atmosphere on Saturdays whenever the bands are available. Additionally, visitors can explore art galleries, quirky shops, an old bank building now home to Nimble & Finn’s ice cream shop, and a humorously named wine shop called Wine Vault.
Moreover, Sonoma’s culinary reputation thrives in Guerneville, too, showcased by chef Crista Luedtke’s Boon Eat + Drink, where I savored an exquisite chili-coated braised pork shoulder served over whipped polenta and ricotta salata, as well as some delightful flash-fried Brussels sprouts. (Luedtke also owns El Barrio, a mezcal and tequila bar, for those looking to take a break from Sonoma wines.) Therefore, before heading to the coast for crab sandwiches at Spud Point Crab Co. or indulging in tastings at Abbot’s Passage, take time to wander down Guerneville’s Main Street, peek into Books & Letters indie bookshop, and enjoy the small-town charm.