Summary
Dempster Highway Road Trip: An Ultimate Canadian Adventure
The ultimate road trip adventure lies in the breathtaking Dempster Highway. This remarkable highway offers a unique Canadian experience that few get the privilege to enjoy.
Stretching 736 km from the inhospitable Arctic hub of Inuvik, Northwest Territories, to the historic Dawson City in the Yukon, the Dempster Highway presents an unparalleled opportunity for exploration.
- Note: Since our trip, the Dempster Highway has been extended an additional 120 km north from Inuvik to Tuktoyaktuk.
Driving the Dempster Highway
Renowned for its remoteness, the Dempster Highway guides you through stunning mountain landscapes, vast river crossings, and even across the Arctic Circle.
Travelers should be aware that there are no facilities available once you depart from Inuvik until you reach the small outpost town of Fort McPherson.
Inuvik is a quaint and quiet town that thrived during the gas and oil boom years but has since calmed down significantly since the 1990s. It proudly holds the title of being the most northern town accessible by vehicle.
During the summer months, Inuvik benefits from the phenomenon of the midnight sun, experiencing 56 days of continuous daylight. This makes it an ideal base for embarking on your Dempster Highway adventure.
The Dempster Highway Road Trip Begins
Our journey began with a one-way flight from Whitehorse, Yukon, landing in Inuvik after brief stops at three other communities. The experience felt more akin to a local bus route than a traditional flight.
Inuvik offers a selection of hotels, restaurants, and bars to enhance your stay, as well as a well-stocked department store where you can gather supplies for your road trip.
Hot Tips for Driving the Dempster Highway
For those not renting a robust SUV, it’s crucial to ensure that your vehicle is in top-notch condition, as roadside assistance is virtually nonexistent.
It’s imperative to carry a spare tire, ample water, sufficient food, and a full tank of gas. For those concerned about fuel shortages, bringing a jerry can filled with extra gasoline can be a lifesaver.
We set off to explore the Dempster Highway at dawn, although with the continuous daylight, it felt like any hour of the day. Time took on a new meaning in this remarkable northern expanse, where you can drive through the night beneath the midnight sun.
Fort McPherson
Before our second river crossing, we took a moment to explore Fort McPherson, originally a fur-trading outpost for the Hudson Bay Company and home to the first Mounted Police post in the Western Arctic. It’s a worthwhile stop before boarding the ferry across the Peel River.
After a short wait, the ferry crossing allowed us to continue our journey down the Dempster Highway. The relentless rain made the otherwise splendid shale road treacherous, and the fog thickened behind us.
While wildlife sightings are common along the Dempster Highway, most animals tended to remain hidden during our visit due to inclement weather. Nevertheless, we were fortunate enough to observe a caribou along the road and numerous cyclists tackling the Dempster on two wheels.
Crossing the Arctic Circle
Despite the ongoing rain on our first day, we did not let it dampen our spirits as we celebrated the crossing of the Arctic Circle.
Experiencing this moment, akin to standing on the Equator in Ecuador or the Greenwich Meridian in Britain, provided a unique thrill that many treasure. This crossing lies just beyond the Northwest Territories, on the Yukon border.
There was no grand celebration as we transitioned between provinces, merely quick snapshots before continuing our journey.
The Eagle Plains Hotel
Upon reaching our overnight stop at the Eagle Plains Hotel, the welcome we received was less than warm.
The hotel itself is a basic roadside motor inn steeped in history. A visit to the bar reveals fascinating historical photographs reflecting the area’s past, including the infamous Mad-Trapper Manhunt involving Albert Johnson.
As the rain continued, travelers arriving later were left stranded due to ferry crossings ceasing operations, which created a lively atmosphere in the hotel.
Dempster Highway Conditions
After refueling our truck and replenishing our water supply, we prepared for a night of restless sleep, filled with excitement and uncertainty about the next day’s travel conditions. The pervasive grayness of the daylight outside didn’t bode well for a clear horizon.
We hoped for improved weather while we slept.
Dawson City
Awakening to thick fog, we pressed onward with cautious optimism. Thankfully, as we dropped in elevation, the sun graced us with its presence, transforming our experience into a beautiful day.
Our truck was caked in mud, indicative of the challenges we faced the previous day. Yet, the stunning views of mountainous landscapes made every moment worthwhile. We spent the day driving through the picturesque regions of Eagle Plains, Peel River Plateau, North Ogilvie, and Mackenzie Mountains, each landscape more breathtaking than the last.
Our two-day journey proved fruitful, but I would recommend taking four days to fully relish this magical drive. Campsites scattered along the Dempster Highway welcome those wishing to enjoy an extended adventure.
Finally reaching Dawson City in the late afternoon offered a stark contrast to the solitude of the Dempster Highway. This bustling town is alive with entertainment, showgirls, nightclubs, and a vibrant nightlife.
While our Dempster Highway drive concluded here, the adventures in Dawson City were just beginning.
Dempster Highway Map – Our Route
Other Recommended Scenic Stops on the Dempster Highway:
- Peel Ogilvie Lookout
- Elephant Rock km 221.2
- Tortured Rock km 220
- Caribou Trails – Even outside the caribou migration season, the trails left in the mountains are a sight to behold.
For more information on traveling to the Yukon and the Dempster Highway, visit TravelYukon. All opinions shared here are purely our own.