The Joy of Dining: How Restaurants Are Redefining Fun
There was once a restaurant on London’s Gloucester Road called the Texas Lone Star. Outside the saloon-style swing doors stood a wooden cigar-store Native American, while inside, Country and Western blared from the speakers, old Westerns played on numerous televisions, and the staff sported Stetsons, Wranglers, and cowboy boots. Subtle, it wasn’t, but by God, it was fun.
Now the chili may have made a Texan growl, and the hot sauce had all the kick of a legless mule, but somehow that didn’t matter. The whole place was abuzz with bonhomie and cheap B52s. I loved it as a child and as an adult, too. But around 20 years ago, the Texas Lone Star served its final sizzling fajita, and things seemed to get more serious.
The Shift in Restaurant Culture
Ok, so the Eighties excesses of nouvelle cuisine were long over. There were still chefs like Rowley Leigh at Kensington Place, Fergus Henderson at St John, and Mark Hix at Le Caprice, who understood that atmosphere was every bit as important as the food.
However, at the top end, we moved into an age where restaurants became places of pious worship; Michelin-starred mausoleums with all the atmosphere of a Trappist rave. Bow down, ye hungry, and despair, while you endure the tyranny of the Tasting Menu – 30 courses of smears, strange-shaped plates, and sommeliers with sneers that could curdle milk.
Fun through Atmosphere
This was dining as high-church Catholicism, with all the attendant smells, bells, and guilt. For all the art and talent involved, the expensive ingredients and vast kitchen brigades, they missed out on one crucial ingredient – fun.
Restaurants like The Fat Duck, El Bulli, and Noma have their place in the culinary universe, breathing the rarefied air at the very apex of the Michelin constellation. My respect for great chefs is immense, and every time I ate at those renowned establishments, I had a blast.
The New Generation
As the Noughties melted into the Teens, a new generation of talented chefs emerged, each ditching the dress codes and formality while still creating food that could wow. However, I’m a simple soul, happier at a Mexico City al pastor taco stand than in the gilded pleasure palaces of Paris. Give me zuppa di cozze with the sand between my feet or splendid oysters at local seafood spots. These places have soul.
Rediscovering Joy in Dining
According to culinary experts, creating an environment where people feel at home and can have fun is paramount to any successful eatery. Whether it’s a café in the backstreets or an established restaurant in London’s West End, dining out should provide an escape from the trials of everyday life.
Now, as we all emerge blinking into freedom post-lockdown, fun is more important than ever. Dining experiences should be uplifting and enriching, appealing to our hearts as well as our stomachs. Great restaurants can offer substantial comfort, making diners feel as though they belong.
Three Favorite Restaurants Redefining Fun
Sessions Arts Club, London
The reason everyone’s still talking stems from the return of chef Florence Knight’s fresh seasonal cooking in a stunning Palladian environment.
Address: Old Sessions House, 24 Clerkenwell Green, London EC1R 0NA
Gage and Tollner, New York
Reopened after years, this historic chophouse in Brooklyn offers velveteen booths and classic dishes in a beautiful dining hall.
Address: 372 Fulton Street, Brooklyn, NY 11201, United States
Potong, Bangkok
This restaurant showcases a thrilling fusion of Chinese and Thai cuisine, offering diners an unforgettable dining experience in a beautifully revamped setting.
Address: 422 Wanit 1 Road, Samphanthawong, Bangkok 10100, Thailand
As we navigate these uncertain times, we need the comfort of engaging dining experiences more than ever. Great restaurants not only nourish our bodies but also elevate our spirits, reminding us that dining out can truly be a celebration of life.