Japanese history and legend were made in Kyushu, the country’s southern- and westernmost of its four main islands. Nicknamed ‘Onsen Island Kyushu,’ it’s here Shintō’s sun goddess, kabuki theater, mythical emperors, wealthy trading ports, cloistered foreigners, samurai rebels, and one of the earth’s greatest wartime tragedies all loom large.
To take a deep dive into this fascinating region’s culture and history, driving is essential, as many places are hard to reach by transit. From the popular tourist destination of Oita Prefecture (with flights arriving from Tokyo and Osaka among other domestic locations), head west. This 8-day itinerary will send you on a counterclockwise circuit of Kyushu, getting off the most well-trodden tourist paths to see our favorite examples of the island’s historic towns, temples, churches, and castles, before culminating back in Oita at the irresistible and world-famous Beppu hot springs.
Day 1
Kitsuki, Oita Prefecture
In certain places in Kitsuki’s castle town, you could be forgiven for believing you had slipped through a wormhole to a different time. Reminders of ancient days are everywhere: a traditional gate called Hanko-no-mon, built during the Edo period (1603-1868), guards the entrance to a local elementary school and has seen many children pass through since it was established.
This town, even with its beautiful patina, remains a living town, where a sense of continuity with the past is palpable. For instance, Suya-no-saka (vinegar slope), featuring a stone-lined walkway going up a steep hill, is a popular photography spot. The house at the bottom of the slope used to belong to a wealthy vinegar merchant—thus the name. However, as this is a living town, the owner of the house now sells miso paste.
The hill itself has featured heavily in samurai dramas over the centuries. In fact, Kitsuki is often referred to as an outstanding example of a Japanese “sandwich-shaped” castle town: the northern and southern plateaus, where high-ranking samurai once lived, face each other, with a merchant street sandwiched between them below.
Get there: Kitsuki is 38 minutes from Beppu by car via Route 10.
Futago-ji Temple and the Kunisaki Peninsula
The temple of Futago-ji, located in the middle of the Kunisaki Peninsula, was founded in 718 and dedicated to Fudō-Myō-o, the fire-enshrouded, sword-wielding deity.
Today, there’s a lovely climb to the shrine, which is built into the face of a cliff. Walk beyond a set of impressive Nio Guardian statues and some Buddhist temple buildings, then pass under a Shinto torii gate. The presence of a Shinto gateway at a Buddhist temple indicates the melding of the two religions over the centuries. From there, visitors will climb some moss-covered, uneven stone steps to reach the shrine.
The shrine itself is quite unusual. The cave behind it has ‘miraculous’ spring water, described as preventing aging. Bring a bottle to save some for family and friends. In addition to this peaceful and sacred spot, there are plenty of subtemples to explore around the mountain’s forested gorges. Furthermore, the wider peninsula features some of the most undisturbed spiritual places in the nation.
Get there: Futago-ji Temple is 38 minutes from Kitsuki by car via Routes 49 and 31.
Days 2-3
Arita and the pottery towns, Saga Prefecture
Moving west through Fukuoka Prefecture, the fastest-growing startup hub in Japan, the next prefecture is Saga. There, the towns of Arita, Imari, and Karatsu established invaluable trade links with the Dutch East India Company in the 17th century, when internal strife in China made it nearly impossible to acquire porcelain from there. In Arita in particular, the pottery was so exquisite that enthusiasm from Dutch royalty and wealthy aristocrats came to be known as ‘porcelain sickness.’ The artwork was highly decorated in the Chinese style, often featuring squares of blue, red, green, or gold.
The city’s mastery of porcelain craftsmanship continues to this day, with many shops selling the precious products the region is renowned for. One such establishment, Gen’emon Kiln, which allows tours, employs only traditional methods to produce hand-made porcelain pieces.
Almost everywhere you look, porcelain plays an important role in the town. Even the torii gate of Arita’s Tozan Shrine is constructed from Arita porcelain instead of the more common stone. Galleries line the Yakimono Sanpo-michi (Pottery Promenade) from the station to the Kyushu Ceramic Museum, so there’s no guarantee your own case of ‘porcelain sickness’ won’t strike at any moment.
Get there: Fukuoka is 2hrs, 30min from Futago-Ji Temple by car via Higashikyushu Expressway and Kyushu Expressway. It’s Kyushu’s largest city and its most urbane and contemporary—worthy of at least a day’s visit on its own. Arita is another 1hr, 30min to the west, via Imajuku Road and the Nishi-Kyushu Expressway.
Hirado and the hidden Christians, Nagasaki Prefecture
The next destination is Hirado, in historic Nagasaki Prefecture. Secluded yet lovely, with hills rising steeply from the sea, the port town was once the location where foreigners first visited Japan and became a symbol of globalization powered by wind and sail.
St. Francis Xavier baptized more than 100 people in Hirado in 1550, which helped Christianity gain a foothold in the region. However, about 70 years later—due to an anti-Christian edict by the suspicious Tokugawa Shogun—many Christians were executed, marking the beginning of Japan’s national isolation period and an era when Japanese Christians went into hiding. The original Dutch trading house in Hirado, which showcased the Christian year of 1639, was destroyed.
Today, reminders of that early Western engagement remain. The current trading house is a faithful reconstruction of the original and houses an interesting collection of Dutch East India Company memorabilia. Moreover, Hirado’s eclectic mix of churches and temples provides a fascinating subject for keen photographers.
Nearby, the village of Shitsu has also been associated with the history of these hidden Christians for centuries. It has more recently gained attention as the setting for Martin Scorsese’s 2017 film Silence.
Get there: Hirado is just over an hour west of Arita by car, via Route 204.
Day 4
Nagasaki’s moving reminders of World War II tragedy
It’s both unfortunate and important that the name Nagasaki is synonymous with the dropping of the second atomic bomb during World War II. The history of destruction and loss of life stemming from the 9 August 1945 detonation undeniably overshadows everything else in this otherwise vibrant and charming city that boasts a welcoming and peaceful vibe. The WWII history cannot be overlooked, however, and a visit to sites of destruction keeps the memory of the victims alive.
Many of these reminders are located in Urakami, a suburb to the north of the city proper. A trip isn’t complete without paying a visit to the Peace Park situated on a small hill north of Ground Zero. The park is presided over by a 10-tonne bronze Nagasaki Peace Statue and includes the dove-shaped Fountain of Peace and a sculpture garden, featuring pieces from around the globe.
The Nagasaki Atomic Bomb Museum is about a six-minute walk from Peace Park, recounting the city’s destruction and loss of life through photos, artifacts, firsthand accounts, and various exhibits. Adjacent is the National Peace Memorial Hall of the Atomic Bomb Victims, a profoundly moving place with a sculpted water basin and 12 ‘pillars of light’ containing shelves of books with the names of the deceased. Interactive exhibits allow visitors to listen to survivors’ messages and leave their own digital messages for peace.
Get there: Nagasaki is roughly two hours south of Hirado by car, around Ōmura Bay, via the Nishi-Kyushu Expressway, Kyushu Crossing Expressway, and Nagasaki Expressway.
Days 5-6
Onsen and kabuki in Yamaga, Kumamoto Prefecture
You could take a 60-minute ferry from Shimabara in Nagasaki Prefecture directly to Kumamoto; however, doing so would mean missing the charming and under-the-radar Edo town of Yamaga. The town has long been known for its hot springs, but these are certainly not the only points of interest. Rent a kimono for the day and truly indulge in Yamaga’s nostalgic atmosphere.
There are just a few kabuki theaters—featuring elaborate costumes and dynamic acting—left in Japan, and Yachiyo-za, established in 1910, is one of them. The theater fell into disrepair over the years and faced the threat of demolition. Fortunately, the refurbished venue reopened in 2001, preserving much of the original woodwork of the building.
A key element of kabuki theaters is the revolving stage. The stage at Yachiyo-za requires four men to manually rotate it from a room below. There are also manually operated lifts that allow actors to make dramatic entrances or exits. If attending a performance is impossible, a guided tour may be available.
Get there: Yamaga is about 2hrs, 20mins by car from Nagasaki via Kyushu Crossing Expressway / Nagasaki Oita Line and Kyushu Transit Expressway.
Kumamoto Castle
Kumamoto’s Castle, one of the three most famous castles in Japan, was built between 1601 and 1607 and served as the seat of the powerful Hosokawa clan starting in 1632.
Kumamoto takes pride in this architectural and historic landmark, around which the city radiates, though it was severely damaged by a major earthquake in 2016. Currently, the local government prioritizes restoring the castle to its former glory; however, many portions remain closed. For the time being, visitors can view the castle tower and some outbuildings from Ninomaru Square and Kato Shrine. Strolling around the castle grounds offers an ideal way to enjoy an afternoon.
The area around the castle is bustling with a tempting collection of restaurants, bars, and shops located in busy arcades to the east. The city’s tourism website provides the latest information regarding site closures.
Get there: Kumamoto is an hour south of Yamaga by car, via National highway No. 3.
Day 7
Sengan-en, Kagoshima
Sengan-en, originally constructed in 1658, is the former residence of the Shimazu family of the Satsuma Clan, one of the most powerful feudal clans during the Edo period, along with its attached garden, which forms part of a larger World Heritage Site.
One of the most striking features of the garden is its views of nearby Sakurajima and Kagoshima Bay. The grounds also comprise ceremonial gardens, photogenic shrines, and symbolic sculptures and rock formations, including the jumping-lion lantern, arched toward Sakurajima. The garden’s wealth of tropical trees thrives exceptionally well in Kagoshima’s balmy microclimate.
Allocate 45 minutes for a leisurely stroll through the garden and 30 minutes for a self-guided tour of the 25-room Goten (‘the house’ on signage), the former villa of the Shimazu family. While it is extensive, the villa is now only one-third of its original size.
Get there: Kagoshima is 2hrs, 30min south of Kumamoto by car, via Kyushu Expressway.
Udo-jingū Shrine, Miyazaki Prefecture
One of your final stops should be where it all began. Udo-jingū, located on the Nichinan Coast south of Miyazaki City, is dedicated to Ugayafukiaezu, the father of the Emperor Jimmu, the mythical first emperor of Japan. This brightly painted shrine, set in a cave on the side of a cliff overlooking the ocean, offers spectacular views and was designated a site of special scenic beauty by the Japanese government in 2017.
Next to the shrine is a terrace that provides an ocean view. Among the rocks below, a rope encircles a tiny pool of water. Landing small ceramic undama, or lucky balls (available at the shrine for a small fee), into the tiny pool is said to make wishes come true.
You’ll be glad you have your car, as you’ll want to stop at nearly every corner to capture photographs.
Get there: Miyazaki is 2hrs east of Kumamoto by car, via Higashikyushu Expressway / Kagoshima section and Miyazaki Expressway.
Day 8
Back in Beppu, Oita Prefecture
We arrive back where we began, and Beppu is the perfect place to relax and unwind after the road. You don’t have to look far to see the reason for this town’s popularity: vapor rising from vents in the earth indicates there are plenty of onsen-bathing opportunities. With eight onsen districts, aficionados spend their time moving from one bath to another and typically consider at least three baths a day obligatory.
Beppu’s most-hyped attraction is the jigoku meguri (‘hell circuit’; groups of boiling hot springs), where water bubbles from below the ground in unusual ways. One of the most picturesque stops is Umijigoku, a steamy blue color due to the iron oxide in its 208-degree-fahrenheit water. It’s said to be about 650 feet down to the source. The circuit’s eight stops are divided into two groups: six at Kannawa, more than 2.5 miles northwest of Beppu Station, and two about 1.5 miles further north.
Like the steam surrounding you, Japan’s history has billowed out from the island of Kyushu over centuries of glory and tragedy. Taking the time to soak it in will sustain you long after you’ve departed.
Get there: Beppu is 3 hours north of Miyazaki by car via Higashikyushu Expressway.
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