Discovering Mostar: A Gem in Bosnia and Herzegovina

There’s something more alluring about a place that isn’t straightforward to reach. Bosnia and Herzegovina has been cut off from the rest of the European rail network since the breakup of Yugoslavia, which adds to its mystique. Mostar Airport has also been out of action since the mid-1990s. Consequently, this adventure begins at Split Bus Station in neighboring Croatia. Despite the discomfort from the well-worn seats, there are worse journeys to embark on. We trundle along the Adriatic coastal highway, passing picturesque fishing villages and emerald islets ringed by white beaches, before retreating into the Croatian mountains. Acres of virgin pine forests surround us, this landscape disturbed only by clusters of terracotta roofs. Minarets begin swaying from the hilltops, the telltale sign that we’ve left Croatia behind.

Cultural Heritage and Attractions

Bosnia and Herzegovina is home to one of Europe’s few remaining indigenous Muslim populations, introduced to Islam by the Ottomans some 500 years ago. Today, around half of the population is Muslim. The country has faced various occupations, from the Austro-Hungarians to the Nazis, not to mention the military forces during the last conflict. However, it’s the stunning Ottoman relics, namely Stari Most (the old bridge) and the Koski Mehmed Pasha Mosque, that captivate visitors. These architectural marvels stand as testaments to the region’s rich history.

Exploring Mostar

Mostar is very compact, making it easy to explore many of its key attractions on foot within a single day. Significant sites include:

• Stari Most
• Koski Mehmed Pasha Mosque
• Museum of War and Genocide
• The local bazaar
• Kajtaz House

Despite this, Mostar shouldn’t be rushed. On the contrary, the city embodies a laidback Mediterranean lifestyle where work is balanced with life, and coffee breaks transform into rituals lasting at least 45 minutes. Moreover, Mostar serves as an excellent base for exploring the region’s magnificent vineyards, waterfalls, mountain trails, and other Ottoman settlements. Prices for hotels and dining are significantly cheaper compared to Croatia, making a longer stay financially appealing. I find myself comfortably seated at a bar terrace, savoring a cold tipple while day-tripping visitors hurriedly seek their perfect Instagram shots. This is excellent for the divers who earn a living performing daring plunges into the icy Neretva River below. Despite summer highs of 45℃ in Mostar, the river water rarely exceeds 7℃.

The View from Above

The Neretva appears far tamer from the top of Koski Mehmed’s minaret. It silently slithers through the city like a blue viper, and the views remain uninterrupted until your eyes meet the majestic Dinaric Alps. Therefore, my advice is to undertake this sweaty climb after 4 PM when it’s cooler and quieter, allowing you to fully appreciate the breathtaking scenery.