My first visual encounter with Dominica was through the paintings of the Italian-born artist Agostino Brunias, who portrayed the island in tame, stylised vignettes of colonial rule. However, upon arrival, it quickly becomes clear that nothing is tame about this land situated in the Lesser Antilles. With its volcanic energy and bi-colour leaves of bois canot trees, Dominica captivates with its waterfalls, rainbows, and vivid coral reefs. During hurricane season, its power becomes apparent.
Mastery of the lush tropical rainforest, covering over 60% of the island, helped the native Kalinago people survive invasions. The legacy of colonization can be seen in the rich mixture of cultures and languages, where flower teas and bush rums flourish from its healing herbs.
The Jungle Bay hotel embraces the natural environment, nestled in the forests of Soufrière. While I arrived late and the kitchen was closed, the warmth of Dominica’s hospitality was evident when I was offered a late dinner of stewed beans with taro, rice, and plantain. My villa opened onto a private veranda with stunning views of Soufrière Bay, enhancing the natural beauty of the island.
The nearby Soufriére Scotts Head Marine Reserve features a remarkable underwater landscape, making it an ideal spot for free diving and scuba adventures. The waters here are incredibly clear and vibrant, offering an intimate experience with nature. Nevertheless, global warming poses challenges, as rising ocean temperatures contribute to coral bleaching—a significant concern for local divers like Simon Walsh.
The consequences of natural disasters are also visible in Dominica’s landscape. On the Syndicate Nature Trail, renowned ornithologist Bertrand Jno Baptiste demonstrates how nature regenerates after destruction, pointing to new trees growing post-Hurricane Maria.
Carla Armour, who has experienced the aftermath of Hurricane Maria firsthand, emphasizes the resilience and unity of the Dominican people. Meeting a range of locals—including forestry workers and artists—reveals a deep connection to the island’s culture and resilience. While exploring the Trafalgar Falls and relaxing in the hot springs of Wotten Waven, I learn how locals view hurricanes as not just threats, but also as events that contribute nutrients beneficial to wildlife.
In another encounter, I visit the Jacko Steps, an impressive archaeological site linked to Maroon history. Guided by Eunice George, I navigate the natural beauty of this historical landmark, reflecting on its significance in preserving Dominican heritage.
During my stay at Papillote Wilderness Retreat, I was struck by the lush flora surrounding me, including floral splendor ranging from begonias to orchids. The local spirit is evident as I navigate through Dominica’s vibrant culture and natural beauty.
Where to Stay in Dominica
Secret Bay
This collection of boutique villas offers a retreat into nature with stunning views and a warm outdoor pool. Explore local cuisine at the on-site Zing Zing restaurant, known for its delectable quinoa salad.
Harmony Villa
Perched on a hill in the Central Forest Reserve, Harmony Villa merges art with nature, allowing guests to enjoy a serene environment while appreciating the diversity of local birdlife.
Jungle Bay
A charming retreat focused on nature-inspired relaxation and wellness. Guests can delight in locally sourced meals while enjoying exceptional spa treatments and engaging in yoga or freediving.
Where to Eat in Dominica
Steak House
Led by chef Felicia Williams, this restaurant offers a delightful menu rooted in local flavors, including top-quality seafood and unique cocktails, making it a must-visit destination for food lovers.
Flavours Grill
A popular spot for locals, this eatery presents a variety of traditional dishes, with a standout being stewed fish paired with boiled breadfruit—a true Dominican delicacy.
Zeb Zepis Bistro
This farm-to-table establishment features a dynamic menu brimming with fresh vegetables and original desserts, crafted by a Trinidadian chef well-versed in Dominican cuisine.
