Cycling in Edinburgh: A Biker’s Guide to Scotland’s Capital
Crisscrossed by cobbled pathways and steep, traffic-laden lanes, Edinburgh might not seem ideal for cycling. However, despite the undulating topography and web of ancient streets, Scotland’s hilly, historic capital is surprisingly well set up for cyclists.
Decommissioned railway lines, Victorian-era canal paths, and wide seaside promenades are just a few of the many routes that can easily be traversed on two wheels. Whether you come with your own bike or rent wheels on arrival, here’s how to make the most of cycling in Edinburgh.
Where to Rent a Bike in Edinburgh
Let’s start with the practicalities. Although Edinburgh’s Bike & Go bike share scheme closed in 2021, there are still plenty of local bike shops in the center where you can rent a cycle. Biketrax, a 15-minute walk from Edinburgh Castle, rents out road bikes for around £25 (US$35) per day, including a helmet, bike lock, and lights; the cost decreases slightly for each additional day. They are also an excellent choice for electric bike hire.
Staying a bit longer? You might be better off picking up a second-hand bike. Pedal Forth, Soul Cycles, and charity-run The Bike Station are all good options for used cycles (and they may offer daily or weekly rentals as well). You’ll find a good range of mountain bikes too – handy if you plan to tackle routes heading out into the hills.
Tips for Cycling in Edinburgh
Road cycling in Edinburgh is fairly easy, cobbles and topography notwithstanding. Drivers are used to sharing the road with cyclists; however, remember to wear a helmet and be wary of passing on the inside of buses, vans, and lorries, which may turn left unexpectedly.
There are plenty of reserved bike lanes and cycle paths, and there is a safety box for cyclists ahead of the cars at traffic lights. Use bike lights and wear high-visibility clothing at night. Edinburgh’s parks provide some useful cycling cut-throughs, particularly Holyrood Park and The Meadows. Contact Cycling Edinburgh for more tips and local insights.
When it comes to route-finding, the old-fashioned paper Edinburgh Cycle Map from Spokes gives a detailed overview of the city’s cycle network, including gradients and terrain. Purchase it online via the Spokes website, or from any of Edinburgh’s bike shops. Spokes also produces maps of the wider Lothian region if you’re planning a day trip beyond the capital with your bike.
Prefer to go digital? Maps of Edinburgh’s most popular cycle paths are easy to find online, and you can plan a route using the online cycle route planners at CycleStreets and BBBike, which also lets you filter by road surface type and street lighting level.
Edinburgh’s Best Cycle Routes
Edinburgh boasts a commendable collection of cycle routes, enabling you to wind through the historic streets of the center or avoid the hustle and bustle altogether with a leisurely ride along the seafront.
Portobello Promenade Loop
5.6 miles (9km) each way; 3 hours; intermediate
The suburb of Portobello is Edinburgh’s most attractive coastal neighborhood, home to one of the city’s best beaches. This picturesque out and back ride takes you right along the Portobello promenade, following a whirlwind tour of some of Edinburgh’s top sites.
Start your loop at Edinburgh Waverley station and take a mini detour up Calton Hill to see the Athenian-inspired National Monument. From there, skirt around the grand Palace of Holyroodhouse and the base of Arthur’s Seat. After a brief stretch along relatively quiet backstreets, you’ll join the Restalrig Railway Path, running all the way to the coast where you can pick up the promenade path.
The return journey from Portobello largely mirrors the route, except for the final section where you’ll glide down Leith Walk back to the station. This ride is optimal for people arriving in Edinburgh by train with a bike in tow.
Water of Leith Cycle Path
12 miles (19km); 1.5 hours one way; easy
A trip to Leith, one of Edinburgh’s best neighborhoods northeast of the city center, should definitely be on your agenda. Cycling here is a breeze, thanks to the Water of Leith Cycle Path, a 12-mile (19km) path reserved for bikes and walkers, traversing Edinburgh to Balerno, just southwest of the center.
This mostly flat path winds past various landmarks, including Dean Village, a slice of bucolic village life on the fringes of the city, alongside the Collington Tunnel adorned with a grand psychedelic mural. You’ll also glimpse the magnificent façade of the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art; it’s worth stopping in to admire masterpieces from Van Gogh, Dali, and Eduardo Paolozzi.
The Union Canal Towpath
31 miles (51km); 2.5–3 hours one way; intermediate
The Union Canal, once a crucial freight route connecting Edinburgh with Falkirk, celebrates its 200th birthday in 2022. It’s one of the most popular traffic-free cycle routes in and out of the city, stretching for a total of 31 miles (51km).
Begin your ride at Lochrin Basin near Haymarket and enjoy a kaleidoscope of Edinburgh scenery. Victorian tenements and industrial sites give way to stunning aqueducts and verdant countryside around the picturesque River Almond Gorge. At the end of the canal, you’ll encounter the Falkirk Wheel, an incredible feat of modern engineering allowing boats to navigate the 110ft (34m) height difference between the Union Canal and the Forth & Clyde Canal.
A nice halfway point between the wheel and the city is the 15th-century Linlithgow Palace, renowned as Mary Queen of Scots’ birthplace. Upon reaching Falkirk, you can retrace your journey back to Edinburgh or continue to Glasgow by following the towpath of the connecting Forth & Clyde Canal.
The Union Canal towpath is barely a meter wide in some areas, so be mindful of walkers and other cyclists. The route is well signposted, as it’s part of both Route 75 and Route 754 of the National Cycle Network.
Innocent Railway Path
6 miles (9.5km); 40-minute round trip; easy
If you’re short on time, this scenic 6-mile (9.5km) out and back route is a great choice. The trail, part of National Cycle Route 1, follows a disused railway line from Newington near the city center to Brunstane just south of Portobello.
The Innocent Railway Tunnel, an intriguing landmark along the southwest edge of Holyrood Park, serves as a sensible starting point. Navigate through the cool, damp minutes of this eerie passageway before cruising through the lush grounds of one of Edinburgh’s most popular parks.
The path becomes steeper the further south you venture and culminates near Brunstane station – convenient if you want to cycle one way and catch the train back to the city. If you prefer flat rides and only wish to cycle in one direction, consider tackling this route from south to north instead.
Mountain Biking in Edinburgh
Go beyond the city limits, and you’ll uncover dozens of trails perfect for navigating tricky terrain. The Green Cleugh Valley sits within the Pentland Hills and offers several loops suitable for intermediate mountain bikers. A popular option is cutting through the gap between Hare Hill and Black Hill along a combination of rocky paths and smooth tracks.
If you’re a more seasoned rider, consider the Capital Trail – an ambitious 124-mile (200km) route mapped out by Bikepacking Scotland, tailored for advanced cyclists. Starting at Portobello Beach, it guides you around the hilly outskirts of Edinburgh. The surfaces and terrain are highly varied, from steep uphill climbs near Peebles to lengthy, flat sections along the Firth of Forth coast.
Bike Repair Shops in Edinburgh
Is your ride halted by a pesky puncture or a broken chain? Worry not – Edinburgh has a plethora of bike repair shops. Most bike rental shops also offer repair services, and Halfords Bike Service provides free assessments to check the overall health of your bike (helpful if you’ve recently bought one second-hand). If you find yourself stuck in a remote location, reach out to Allbikes-Edinburgh, one of several mobile bike repair services available.
If you take your cycling seriously, you can find quality bike parts in Edinburgh’s many independent cycle stores. The Edinburgh Bicycle Cooperative is particularly notable and stocks items from dozens of popular bike brands.
This article was first published Jan 4, 2022, and updated Jan 17, 2022.
