Emily Harrington’s Historic Free Climb of Golden Gate
Yosemite has been a proving ground for rock climbers for decades, attracting individuals from all around the world with its stunning scenery and challenging routes. The Golden Gate route is known as one of the more difficult climbs on the iconic El Capitan, and just this week, Emily Harrington has made history by becoming the first woman to free climb it in a day.
Successfully completing the grade VI 5.13 route in 21 hours and 13 minutes, Harrington has now become the fourth person to free climb the 3000-foot-high route in 24 hours, joining the ranks of renowned climbers like Tommy Caldwell, Brad Gobright, and Alex Honnold. Remarkably, this achievement comes less than a year after her first attempt, which unfortunately left her hospitalized. Typically, experienced climbers take four to six days to conquer this route, which consists of over 40 pitches or sections.
“El Capitan is one of the largest, most difficult, and iconic walls in the world, deeply entrenched in climbing culture. I grew up knowing about it and the incredible achievements that have taken place there. It has always been in the back of my mind. I free climbed the Golden Gate route in 2015 over six days, and I felt that attempting to climb it in under 24 hours would be a true show of progression in my climbing,” Emily stated.
Free climbing entails a climber ascending a route without any physical assistance, relying solely on a rope for safety in the event of a fall. On November 4 at 1:34 AM, Emily set off with Alex Honnold, whose rope-free ascent of El Capitan was featured in the Oscar-winning film Free Solo. Honnold served as her belay partner, managing the safety rope during the climb.
A harrowing slip on the 13a Golden Desert pitch tested her resolve, leaving her with a bloodied gash on her forehead. Nevertheless, she pushed through the adversity to complete this monumental task. Both the climb and the preparation for it imparted valuable lessons to Emily.
“I think mostly I learned how to fail. Understanding how to deal with uncertainty, struggle, and the very real possibility of working towards something that might never happen. I had to come to terms with that reality. As a perfectionist, I was incredibly hard on myself. Once I learned to embrace a little more compassion for myself, I found the space to really try hard, to get creative, and ultimately succeed,” she reflected.
Harrington has been a prominent figure in the climbing community since her teenage years, with her early accomplishments on the USA Climbing Team during national and international competitions. Since shifting her focus from competition climbing, she has completed numerous first female ascents of 5.14 sport routes, summited Everest, and participated in expeditions around the globe attempting big wall free climbs and high-altitude peaks in places like Nepal, China, Myanmar, Crimea, and Morocco.
In addition to her remarkable achievements, Emily hopes to inspire others to take up climbing. “I want people to realize that climbing is an activity without a defined ‘ideal’ for who can excel. Climbing is for everyone, and I hope more individuals are motivated to try it. My advice would be to ‘embrace the struggle.’ The fear and discomfort never fully disappear; you simply learn to navigate those challenges more effectively. This gift extends to all areas of life,” Emily expressed.
