With its beautiful but rugged mountain ranges, rich culture, and Soviet past, Georgia once had a reputation as a challenging travel destination loved by intrepid backpackers. Fortunately, it has never been easier to visit Georgia, and it is no coincidence that much of the country’s economy is now based on tourism.
Having visited Georgia for over 20 years, I have witnessed its transformation almost beyond recognition while still retaining a reassuring familiarity. Few countries can boast the charms that win Georgia countless converts among first-time visitors, and it is rare to hear anything but praise for the country after someone returns from their journey. Here are some essential tips to help you discover the delights of Georgia, known locally as Saqartvelo.
1. Allow Ample Time to Explore
Georgia may appear small on a map, leading some first-time visitors to believe it can be explored in just a few days. However, due to a combination of mountainous terrain and infrastructural limitations, travel times between regions can be significant. Therefore, budget at least three full days to explore the capital, Tbilisi. For a comprehensive experience, a full week in Georgia is recommended to visit some of the best places.
2. Pack Clothes for All Weather Conditions
The summer can be stiflingly hot in the lowlands, but temperatures drop significantly at higher altitudes, especially in the High Caucasus, where a fleece and jacket are essential even in July. Generally, Georgians are quite relaxed about clothing; however, in churches, skin should be covered, and women are often expected to wear headscarves or skirts.
3. Be Prepared for Challenging Roads
Experienced drivers can feel comfortable taking the wheel in Georgia. The roads have improved significantly in the past two decades, but they can still be single-lane with potholes and lack proper lighting at night. The famed road to Tusheti should only be attempted by confident drivers in 4WD vehicles.
4. Ask Locals for the Best Driving Routes
While navigation apps are handy, it’s wise to consult locals for advice on driving routes. What the app suggests might not accurately reflect road conditions. Often, taking the longer, less direct route can result in a safer and smoother journey.
5. Be Cautious of Sheepdogs in the Mountains
Sheepdogs in the Caucasus are bred to be fierce and can pose a danger. Maintain a safe distance when hiking in the mountains and carry a stick if possible. Avoid walking too close to herds of livestock, as a sheepdog may suddenly appear, creating an unpleasant surprise.
6. Understand Political Sensitivities
While speaking Russian may assist in conversations with older locals, many younger Georgians view it as a relic of colonialism due to the ongoing occupation of approximately 20% of the country’s territory. Discussions about the breakaway regions of South Ossetia and Abkhazia can be sensitive, so approach this topic with care.
7. Exercise Moderation with Chacha
Chacha, Georgia’s potent national drink similar to grappa, can be deceptively strong. Commercially produced varieties are around 40% proof, but homemade versions can be much stronger. Therefore, proceed with caution when offered a glass.
8. Avoid Toasting with Beer
In Georgia, beer is traditionally reserved for toasting enemies. If you find yourself at a supra (traditional feast), ensure you have a glass of wine or chacha to toast. Toasting is a significant ritual with specific rules, so paying attention to the customs will enhance your experience.
9. Expect Conservative Attitudes in Rural Areas
While Tbilisi presents a progressive view of Georgian society, rural areas, particularly in the mountains, may reveal more traditional perspectives. Friendly locals might pose personal inquiries about marital status or family, reflecting the prevalent societal norms.
10. Drink Bottled Water in Urban Areas
Although mountain water is usually safe to drink, it is advisable to stick with bottled water in urban centers, where the quality might be uncertain. Fortunately, this allows you to savor Georgia’s renowned mineral water, Borjomi.
11. Use Underpasses to Cross Busy Streets
Tbilisi can be difficult to navigate on foot, particularly along its bustling main avenues. Make use of the numerous underpasses available to cross the street safely, especially in high-traffic areas.
12. Tipping Etiquette in Major Cities
Tipping is becoming increasingly common in Georgia, particularly in Tbilisi, Batumi, and Kutaisi. Generally, leaving a tip of around 10% for good service is appropriate in mid-range to high-end restaurants. However, note that tips added to credit card payments may not reach your server.
