iBestTravel Local Erin Harvey moved to Tunis two years ago and has relished the relaxed pace of life and the many sunny days, which are perfect for taking advantage of the bountiful local beaches. Full of culture set to a perfect Mediterranean backdrop, Tunis still feels undiscovered by mass tourism. She loves everything Tunis has to offer, from shopping in the ancient medina to secret concerts and dancing until dawn. With scented jasmine and bougainvillea-lined streets, it’s hard not to fall in love with this picturesque city.
Exploring the Local Scene
When I have friends in town… I like to show them the ancient medina, with its winding alleyways. One of my favorite spots is the secret roof terrace at Ed Dar next to the Grand Mosque. Other options include the beautiful views from the ruins of Carthage and the floral hills of Sidi Bou Saïd. The courtyard at Villa Bleue is stunning for an aperitif. Typically, small artisanal markets are held each weekend selling eclectic handicrafts from local creators. For a break, I love going to Café Le Saf Saf for a pine nut mint tea while people-watching. Additionally, sunset at The Cliff restaurant on the edge of the sea is a must on warm summer evenings, and I’ll always save a day for a picnic on La Marsa Beach or Amilcar Beach with deli food from the delicious Les Ravioli D’Anny.
A Typical Weekend in Tunis
A typical weekend involves… lots of sport and socializing. I start the weekend with a game of tennis after work on Friday followed by aerial yoga or sunset beach yoga and catching up with friends somewhere like La Cuisine, Nippon or Café Takina. Saturday starts early with horseback show jumping training or galloping on the beach. Saturday evenings begin with low-key drinks at Jobi or the newly reopened Villa Les Palmas, but they often end with dancing at Wax Bar, Carpe Diem or Boeuf Sur Le Toit. On Sunday mornings, I cycle or run to my favorite viewpoint from Gammarth that looks across the coastal suburbs, then head to the bustling fruit and vegetable market in La Marsa to stock up on local seasonal produce for the week ahead.
Delving into Culture
When I want culture… I head to Sidi Bou Saïd for some gallery hopping. The galleries may be small, but they feature great exhibitions from renowned regional artists; Ghaya Gallery and Gallerie Saladin are my favorites. Establishments like Café Cultural Liber’The and CineMadart are at the forefront of showcasing Tunisian films that explore exciting topics and usually host seminars with the directors. Live music plays a big part in Tunisian society, and experiencing it in one of the old Roman amphitheatres or Tahar Hadid in the medina is truly special. Sofa Sounds recently started in Tunisia and is a perfect way to spend a Sunday evening, showcasing local musicians at different locations around Tunis, including personal homes.
Exploring Beyond the City
When I want to get out of the city… I explore the whole country. I love the greenery of Zaghouan and Testour, along with finding lesser-known Roman or Berber ruins such as the abandoned town of Zriba. In summer, I often head north to Raf Raf or southeast to Cap Bon most weekends. There’s a tiny peninsula of private beach just off Ghar El Melh with four shack restaurants, which you access via a small boat. My favorite spot is CouCou Dream Beach. It’s a fantastic place to completely relax, enjoy good food, and sway in a hammock at the calm water’s edge.
A Shopper’s Paradise
When I’m in the mood to shop… I head to one of the many concept stores such as XYZ or Super Souk to check out what’s new from local homeware and clothing designers. I appreciate Lyoum for slogan t-shirts with a Tunisian twist and gain interior design inspiration from Rock the Kasbah’s showroom. Additionally, I adore Tunisian kilim rugs and Berber weaving; the owner of the tiny Gallerie Yasmine keeps an eye out for designs I may like. I visit Holya in Sidi Daoud for made-to-order rugs. Sadika in Gammarth serves as both a hand-blown glass atelier and an art gallery, offering excellent value for money. I often carry back fouta towels, pottery, and glassware as gifts.
Must-Try Delicacies
Make sure to eat… makhroud. Half a kilo of these sweets (dates or figs wrapped in semolina pastry) can be found for just a few dinars in the medina, and they are dangerously addictive. I am particularly fond of dates and can’t resist pistachio-filled ones from Deyma. The bambalouni (fried doughnuts) in Sidi Bou Saïd are ridiculously cheap (and sugary). When dining out, I recommend trying mechouia (a spread made with roasted peppers, tomato, onion, and garlic) as a starter alongside local flatbread with Tunisian olive oil and spicy harissa. Les Terroirs de Tunisie produces the best harissa, with variations including added ginger or rosemary.
The Transformation During Ramadan
During Ramadan… the whole city transforms. Between 6 PM and 8 PM, it is so silent that you can hear a pin drop as people enjoy iftar meals to break the day’s fast, but by 10 PM, a carnival atmosphere takes over. La Marsa Corniche buzzes until the early hours, and all the cafés overflow with patrons. The roads go from empty to congested in mere minutes. During the last two weeks of Ramadan, the medina comes alive at night, adorned with live music and special exhibitions and events.
The Surprising Vibe of Tunis
One thing that surprised me about Tunis is… how fun and cool it is! There are common misconceptions that it’s all camels and couscous; however, it’s a sophisticated, relaxed city with a significant Mediterranean influence and a buzzing nightlife. For me, it’s incredibly unique in North Africa. Pasta is definitely more popular than couscous, and there’s a vibrant atmosphere and open-minded attitude among the residents here.
