Bucharest: A City of Hidden Gems
iBestTravel Local Monica Suma recently moved back to her native Bucharest after 12 years abroad. Drawn by the urban revival and cultural effervescence, this former New Yorker enjoys strolling through the back alleys of interwar Bucharest, searching for hidden haunts, delicious eats, and ever-present festivals.
My Favourite Places in the City
Typically, my favorite spots in Bucharest revolve around food and architecture, both of which the city excels in. The Romanian Athenaeum, home to the George Enescu Philharmonic Orchestra, is my favorite landmark. Moreover, I also adore the belle époque villas and stately Neo-Romanian mansions that abound in the city. Many of these historic buildings feature garden bars, something I missed dearly while living abroad. I’m a true foodie, always on the lookout for the newest cafes and restaurants, but I equally cherish seeing historical monuments transformed into cultural centers such as ARCUB Gabroveni or Point Art Hub.
When I Have Friends in Town
I love taking my friends on a foodie tour sprinkled with art and architecture, featuring venues they wouldn’t easily find on their own. This includes street art, charming passageways, and spruced-up landmarks like the Palatul Universul building, where we stop for ‘botanical cocktails’ at Fix Me a Drink. I showcase the diversity of Bucharest, transitioning from a low-key flea market in Vitan-Bârzești to an architectural tour in the historically evocative neighborhood of Cotroceni. They get to try a covrig (the Romanian pretzel), an éclair from French Revolution, and a must-visit to Caru’ cu Bere, the oldest brewery in town, renowned for its timeless decor. Additionally, I recommend they explore Ceaușescu’s former residence, known as the Spring Palace, along with the National Village Museum.
On a Typical Weekend
A typical weekend starts with a specialization coffee at one of my favorite coffee shops: Origo, Orygyns Specialty Coffee, or Trofic, which also serves amazing healthy food. With Bucharest’s booming third-wave coffee culture, the options are endless. Consequently, I often hit an exhibition or a festival, which typically includes food and drinks with friends, or attend a show, be it a theater performance or a concert. Sundays are ideal for brunch at Simbio and hopping from one art gallery to another. Recently, I’ve started visiting lesser-known museums like the Frederic and Cecilia Cuțescu-Storck Art Museum and enjoy watching independent movies at Cinema Elvire Popesco, located in the beautifully designed French Institute.
When I Meet Friends for a Drink
I usually choose between a rooftop, garden terrace, or wine bar, depending on the season. Rooftops have surged in popularity in recent years; Linea/ Closer to the Moon is my favorite due to its stunning city views. However, bohemian garden bars, like Grădina Eden and Dianei 4, remain quintessential Bucharest institutions. The craft-beer scene has also been rapidly expanding, with the latest trendy addition being the Danish Mikkeller, housed in a magnificent 20th-century villa on Charles de Gaulle Square. Given that Romania ranks as Europe’s sixth-largest wine producer, wine bars like Pâine și Vin provide excellent alternatives.
When I Need to Relax
A visit to Therme usually does the trick. As one of the largest wellness centers in Europe, a day spent there is purely rejuvenating. With several thermal-water pools, an abundance of exotic plants creating a botanical garden ambiance, and various aqua-gym activities, it serves as a great escape from the usual city chaos. On the other hand, the city’s many parks provide a welcoming refuge of greenery.
On a Sunny Day
I love heading to Herăstrău Park for a run or to explore new areas. Come dusk, the lakeside restaurants on Herăstrău Lake are the perfect spots for enjoying a sundowner. Closer to home, I never tire of exploring my own neighborhood, Icoanei, which retains the character of interwar Bucharest. I find it soothing to peek through ivy-covered houses hiding expansive courtyards or enjoy a good book in Ioanid Park, and I derive visual inspiration from the architectural variety of the area, featuring Neo-Romanian, modernist, and art deco styles.
To Splash Out
For a luxurious experience, I recommend heading to The Artist, Bucharest’s most popular fine-dining restaurant. This remarkable molecular-food venue draws inspiration from Romanian cuisine, offering stunning presentations at approximately half the cost found in Western Europe. Alternatively, for a more intimate dining experience, Beca’s Kitchen is my go-to spot. The food is exquisite, and the owner-chef warmly greets you with a hug. The Puțul lui Zamfir street in Dorobanți also hosts various fantastic culinary venues for foodies to indulge their appetites.
For Cheap Eats
I often indulge in a one-leu covrig topped with roasted sunflower seeds from the ubiquitous patisseries throughout the city, or grab a delicious kebab from Dristor Kebab. When craving traditional Romanian food, a few mici (grilled skinless sausages) are a must; they’re available on most restaurant menus or at farmers’ markets like Obor. La Prăvălescu is a delightful deli offering natural foods, great cakes, and sandwiches. My latest find is Gedo Restaurant, serving hearty Sudanese cuisine and pastries at unbeatable prices. Burger Van serves succulent burgers averaging 25 lei, while Ciorbărie is my top choice for ciorbă de burtă (tripe soup) – they have large bowls of soup alongside half-sandwiches, all at an affordable price.
What I Like Most About Bucharest
What I appreciate the most about Bucharest is its eclectic nature. Unlike larger European capitals that often tread the same well-known paths, Bucharest conceals tremendous potential for urban development. Many people still associate Bucharest primarily with the totalitarian-era Palace of Parliament, one of the largest buildings in the world; however, it is rich with art nouveau villas and modernist architecture. Additionally, it stands out as one of the finest cities for urban exploration, replete with stunning abandoned buildings that have a unique beauty even in their decay (such as Adevărul, a historic newsroom) that can be found with the help of a guide or by venturing out cautiously (i.e., wearing hiking boots). The food and drinks scene is continuously evolving, and the Internet speed here is among the best globally. In terms of value for money, Bucharest certainly has much to offer.
You Know You’ve Been in Bucharest Too Long
You might realize you’ve been in Bucharest too long when you find it normal to walk on the roadway instead of sidewalks cluttered with parked cars. Similarly, spending an hour in traffic for what would normally take just 10 minutes soon becomes a common experience.
