Veteran iBestTravel writer Anirban Mahapatra has been living in Dhaka for the last three years. He spends much of his time exploring the quaint alleys of Dhaka’s old quarters, mingling with the masses in the city’s atmospheric markets, discovering its artistic and cultural melting pots, and savoring its legendary Bengali cuisine.
When I Have Friends in Town
I schedule one morning to take them on a guided walking tour through Dhaka, visiting the leafy campus of Dhaka University. We’ll spend a few hours admiring the imposing architecture of the institution’s Raj-era buildings, including the red-brick Curzon Hall, built in 1905. After that, we stop for a cup of tea and group photo at the minimalist yet impressive Language Martyrs’ Memorial (Shaheed Minar), which honors supporters of Bangladesh’s Bengali language movement who died in the Liberation War of 1971. Students loitering in the area are eager to chat about the university and its history.
My Favourite Cheap Eat in Dhaka
My favorite dish is a delectable plate of biryani—a pilaf-like dish with juicy chunks of marinated mutton steam-cooked with aromatic rice—served at Star Hotel & Kebab. Boasting several outlets across town, this iconic establishment is renowned for its signature biryani, priced at just Tk 200 (less than US$3!). If I’m feeling indulgent, I might add a portion of melt-in-mouth roast leg of mutton and wash it all down with a cool glass of the Bengali yogurt-based drink burhani.
For the Best Photo-Ops in Town
I make an excursion to Sadarghat, Dhaka’s main ferry pier on the Buriganga River. Nothing beats the experience of sitting quietly on the jetty or aboard a small dinghy boat, watching a multitude of people disembark from launch boats, which arrive from distant towns every morning. This is one of Dhaka’s most enduring sights and offers a fascinating glimpse into life on Bengal’s waterways.
Dhaka’s Best-Kept Shopping Secret
A mind-boggling bazaar named Dhanmondi Hawkers’ Market is tucked between layers of urban jungle in the heart of the city off Mirpur Rd. This market, featuring endless rows of tiny shops, is the destination for quality sari shopping. The finest Jamdani and Tangail textiles, crafted from premium Bangladeshi muslin, silk, and cotton, are available here, with prices ranging from US$50 to a hefty US$600! The craftsmanship and quality found here are simply unparalleled, with some saris eventually gracing the wardrobes of Bangladesh’s celebrities, politicians, and socialites.
My Favourite Season in Dhaka
Winter is my favorite season in Dhaka. From November to February, the city enjoys a much-needed reprieve from the intense tropical heat. Moreover, it is the season when Dhaka’s cultural scene comes alive with numerous art festivals and galas such as the Dhaka Art Summit, Dhaka Lit Fest, Bengal Classical Music Festival, Dhaka Jazz & Blues Festival, and the immensely popular photo fair Chobi Mela. For culture enthusiasts like myself, it is the best time to immerse oneself in Dhaka’s vibrant artistic side.
The Canvas of Dhaka’s Rickshaw Art
To me, Dhaka’s Rickshaw art represents a splendid canvas of dreams and aspirations, masterfully painted by Bengali street artists on the metal bodies of rickshaws. My favorite motifs include lush landscapes of rural Bengal, idyllic rural life scenes, ornate depictions of birds and fish, and vibrant portraits of cinematic characters.
Quality Alone-Time in Dhaka
Whenever I need some quality alone-time, I go for an evening walk by the still waters of Hatir Jheel, the city’s largest reservoir. In a metropolis infamous for its noise, pollution, and grime, strolling along a promenade beside a serene lake—past families, friends, lovers, and aspiring musicians—is a refreshingly invigorating experience that allows for quiet contemplation.
Escaping the City
When I want to escape the hustle and bustle, I take a quick trip to Srimangal in the heart of Bangladesh’s tea country. I love wandering through the town’s tea plantations, breathing fresh air in the lush depths of Lowacherra National Park, and enjoying a local lunch at Kutum Bari, the town’s most popular Bengali restaurant.
The One Thing I Dislike About Dhaka
The greatest drawback of Dhaka is undoubtedly its lack of a comprehensive public transport system. While one can always flag down a rickshaw for short distances, commuting over longer routes can be quite daunting—especially during rush hour or heavy rainfall. Additionally, Dhaka is not the most pedestrian-friendly city.
