iBestTravel Local Chitra Ramaswamy has lived in Edinburgh for more than a decade. Based in the north of the city in Leith, which is recognized as one of the UK’s top hipster spots, she enjoys exploring the historic capital’s world-famous architecture, dining at its excellent restaurants, appreciating the city’s stunning green spaces, and seeking out Edinburgh’s best coffee.
When I have friends visiting … I encourage them to explore the narrow closes off the iconic Royal Mile, where hidden gems await, just a heartbeat away from the bustling tourist crowd heading to the castle. My favorite is Dunbar’s Close, a lovely 17th-century garden where you will often find just a few locals enjoying their lunchtime sandwiches. Further up towards the castle end of the Royal Mile, tucked in Lady Stair’s Close, the charming Writer’s Museum boasts interesting items such as Robert Burns’ writing desk and Robert Louis Stevenson’s riding boots.
For cheap eats … you can’t beat Ting Thai Caravan, a trendy Thai cafe serving delicious authentic curries and rice dishes at affordable prices, as long as you’re prepared to queue during busy times. El Cartel is perfect for Mexican enthusiasts, particularly those who love frozen margaritas, and the Mosque Kitchen is a well-known Edinburgh institution, especially popular among the student population for offering the best halal curry in the city.
For fine dining … you’re spoiled for choice in Edinburgh. Treat yourself to an exceptional meal at Tom Kitchin’s Michelin-starred Kitchin in Leith, widely regarded as one of the finest dining establishments in the UK, if you can snag a reservation. Nearby, Restaurant Martin Wishart is equally impressive. Other recommendations for food lovers include Ondine for fresh Scottish seafood, Chop House for steak aficionados, Gardener’s Cottage for hearty meals, and Timberyard, possibly my favorite restaurant, known for its diverse menu.
Take your kids … to the park. I love discovering the city’s stunning green spaces with my baby and four-year-old. The world-class Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh, located in leafy Inverleith since 1820, is a must-see, and just across the road lies Inverleith Park, featuring a lovely pond and marsh area ideal for duck-watching, along with spectacular views of the castle and city. Dr Neil’s Garden, overlooking Duddingston Loch, is another favorite spot where I always feel a sense of peace and joy living in this beautiful city.
If your first thought in a new city is where to find great coffee … head to one of the city’s three Artisan Roast cafes, known for their superb coffee in cozy, aromatic settings. The original location on Broughton Street is ideal for exploring independent shops and restaurants. Additionally, Brew Lab, specializing in single-origin pour-over and espresso, is exceptional as well.
For a unique encounter with public art … make sure to ascend (or descend) Martin Creed’s elegant and harmonious Scotsman Steps: likely my favorite piece of public art. Built in 1899 to connect the Old and New towns, the Turner Prize-winning artist covered each of the 104 steps with a different shade of marble in 2010, revitalizing this stunning but previously neglected piece of architecture.
The best places for a drink … include the ultra-cool The Lucky Liquor Co, offering an innovative menu of 13 cocktails crafted from 13 rotating bottles every 13 weeks. I also enjoy Salt Horse for its wide selection of beers, featuring 12 keg lines and a fantastic bottle shop next door, plus a hidden beer garden downstairs. In summertime, the outdoor area of the vibrant multi-arts venue Summerhall, which includes its own brewery and gin distillery, creates a lively atmosphere. For those who prefer a traditional pub, The Oxford is frequented by Ian Rankin’s famed detective Rebus, while Cafe Royal offers a Parisian ambiance complete with an oyster bar.
On the weekend … I enjoy spending time in Leith, my local neighborhood filled with some of the trendiest cafes, bars, and pubs in Edinburgh, along with two Michelin-starred restaurants. In the morning, I recommend visiting Williams and Johnson at Custom Lane for coffee sourced from Leith’s very own micro roastery. Stroll along the Shore, noted for its charming bars and cafes, then explore the scenic paths of the Water of Leith Walkway or check out The Pitt, a bustling street food market offering outstanding food, drinks, and live music every Saturday. As night falls, Nobles or the legendary Port O’Leith are excellent spots to enjoy a craft beer before heading up Leith Walk into the city.
When I want to blow the cobwebs away … I head to the rugged wilderness of Arthur’s Seat and the breathtaking landscapes of Holyrood Park. After all, how many ancient capitals are situated beneath an extinct volcano? The rocky summit can be reached in just 45 minutes, offering magnificent panoramic views on a clear day, or you can stroll around Hunter’s Bog alongside local Edinburghers walking their dogs. Hangover cures don’t come more refreshing than this.
When I want to escape the city … I take a bus to Portobello, a quirky Victorian seaside town that boasts a vibrant community atmosphere along with a stunning two-mile stretch of beach and promenade. There are also delightful cafes and charity shops to explore.
