Discovering Porto: A Local’s Guide
The warmth of Portuguese people prompted iBestTravelLocal Emily McAuliffe to plant roots in Porto in 2016. In search of culture and adventure, she found a city that wore its heart on its sleeve and elegantly showcased centuries’ worth of history and tradition along compact streets.
When I Have Friends in Town
I give them a workout by climbing the narrow streets that lace around the Sé cathedral in Porto’s oldest neighbourhood. The washing flapping from balconies and the smell of barbecued sardines in summer provide the ultimate insight into traditional Porto. If they’re OK with heights, I take them over the top level of the Ponte de Dom Luís I for an amazing view. The carpet of wild morning glories that drapes across the crumbling buildings beside the bridge is one of my favourite sights in Porto. Come dinner time, we head to Museu d’Avó for petiscos, as these small share plates allow us to sample a variety of typical Portuguese foods.
When I Want to Chill
I head to Jardim das Oliveiras and lie on the grass. The park sits above the trendy Passeio dos Clérigos shopping arcade and is next to my favourite building in the city – the Torre dos Clérigos (and also near one of my favourite bars, Base). I like to time my visits for the tower’s 6 PM bells because something about their melodic chime always makes me smile.
My Favourite Street
is Rua das Flores. There are so many cute cafés and shops, and I love the constant energy. I have to consciously stop myself from taking the same photo repeatedly of the floral-studded façade of Jóia da Coroa, aptly honouring the ‘Street of Flowers’ title.
When I Need to Work
I choose The Coffee Room to fuel my soy-latte caffeine addiction. The café is nestled inside the stylish shoe and clothing store The Feeting Room, and there’s always a cool buzz at the large share table upstairs. In summer, I like to sit on the footpath terrace and enjoy some people-watching between work sessions.
When I Meet Up With Friends
we grab a bottle of vinho verde and some chouriço, then head to Jardim do Morro for a picnic. The sunset views across the river and city are simply unreal.
When We Feel Like Exploring
my friends and I drive or hop on the train to uncover the surrounding areas. Some of my favourite spots near Porto include Braga (a charming university town filled with pretty cafés), Guimarães (the birthplace of Portugal), the Douro Valley (famed for port wine and exceptional table wines), and the Parque Nacional da Peneda-Gerês (a top hiking destination in Portugal).
When I Get the Nibbles
I can’t resist rissóis. These traditional baked or deep-fried pastries, typically filled with meat or prawns, are found in glass counters of cafés across the country. While they may not be the healthiest option, at just €1, they provide a perfect-sized snack. You can discover them all over the city, but the homemade versions at Casa Leandro (Rua de Trás 12) and Restaurante Capa Negra II are particularly delightful.
One of the City’s Prettiest Aspects
is the azulejo tiles. I remain awestruck by buildings like the Igreja do Carmo and Capela das Almas, despite having passed them countless times. I also enjoy strolling along streets like Rua do Bonjardim and Rua Duque da Terceira, choosing my favourite tiles for a dream home.
My Favourite Walk
is along the Douro River to the Farol de Felgueiras. It takes just over an hour from Cais da Ribeira, yet the numerous beautiful sights along the way make the time seem fleeting. The impressive white arch of the Ponte da Arrábida showcases a striking cross-cross pattern as you look up, and I love passing the little fishing boats that bob in the water as I approach Foz. It’s essential to look back occasionally during this walk, as the views of the city behind and the river-mouth ahead are equally enchanting.
When I Want to Avoid the Tourist Crowds
I immerse myself in the backstreets searching for street art. There are countless characters lurking within abandoned buildings that are, for me, a pivotal aspect of the city’s personality. Some of the renowned artists include Costah, YouthOne, Chei Krew, Mesk, Hazul, and Godmess. Once you get attuned to their unique styles, you’ll start recognizing their work throughout the city.
