A fortress of sheer stone guards Slovenia’s hidden valleys, each brimming with quiet glacial lakes, wooden shepherds’ huts, and deep gorges cut by cool, crystalline ravines. The mountains and hills not only overwhelm the landscape, they also dominate the local psyche. Hiking is practically the national sport, whether it’s ascending Mount Triglav or leisurely walking around Lake Bohinj. The food is all farm-fresh, and Ljubljana’s diverse architecture is incredibly captivating, but a true trip to Slovenia means strapping on your hiking shoes and spending your days in nature.
Day 1 & 2: Bled & Bohinj
The twin lakes of Bled and Bohinj are among Slovenia’s most talked-about attractions. Bled dazzles with its royal finery – an elegant church spire punctuates a lonely island in the middle, a crumbling stone castle perches high atop a nearby bluff, and open-air terraces line her banks serving sundowners. In contrast, Bohinj flaunts its natural beauty. Stringently protected by the Triglav National Park, it reflects the pine-studded mountains in its clear, green-tinged waters. While locals often prefer Bohinj, most tourists are drawn to the dramatic contrast of history and nature at Bled. Therefore, a perfect visit includes exploring both lakes, dedicating a full day to each.
In Bled, taking a pletna, a gondola of sorts, across the lake to the island church is popular; however, for the best views of the area, take a short walk up one of two trail markers – Ojstrica and Osojnica – for a coveted bird’s-eye perspective. Don’t miss a slice of the famous cream cake (really just an excuse to rest your legs and enjoy the view), then spend the night in one of the luxury tent-cabins at Garden Village; it’s the perfect intersection between camping and comfort.
Plenty of walking paths meander around Bohinj’s edge; most hikers opt to soak in a bit of the lake before embarking on a more vertical journey into the surrounding mountains. Mount Vogel is a popular choice for the views and amenities at the top, along with its cable car linking Bohinj to its ridges. A thriving ski resort in the winter, Vogel becomes a hiker’s paradise in warmer months with trailheads leading to stunning lookout points in every direction. A guide is necessary for the ascent from the cable car station to the summit of Mount Vogel – the return trip takes just over three hours, but it’s well worth the effort.
Day 3 & 4: Triglav Lake Valley Hike
Climbing the craggy face of Mount Triglav, the country’s highest peak, is a rite of passage for every Slovenian, but hiking its picturesque, lake-lined gorges – well preserved within the national park – should rank high on any traveler’s to-do list. Often called the Valley of the Seven Lakes (though there are actually ten), this trek in the Julian Alps features stunning stony moonscapes and cool blue lakelets as it clears the tree line.
The high-altitude glacial water ultimately drains at the Slap Savica falls, flowing into the glassy tides of Lake Bohinj below. Travelers accompanied by an accredited mountain guide can continue their ascent toward Mount Triglav and Mount Kanjavec, spending nights in basic but comfortable ‘bivis’, permanent bivouac huts along the way. Alternatively, they can descend towards inhabited valleys to explore different routes the following day.
Day 5 & 6: The Soča River and Vršič Pass
There’s something supernatural about the color of the Soča River – it glows with an iridescent blue-green tint that only the clearest water in the world could possess. In the southwest corner of the Julian Alps, almost every facade in the village of Bovec has transformed into a paddling operator offering thrilling trips down the white waters of the gorges. You can kayak through the calmer sections of the emerald river system, join a guided rafting expedition on challenging Level V rapids, or enjoy canyoning between rock crevasses, shaped by millions of years of glacial runoff.
Start your next day early, and as the sun rises, follow the Vršič Pass, Slovenia’s highest road and the sole connection between the northern and southern regions of the Julian Alps, for some of the country’s most captivating views. Built by Russian prisoners during the First World War, this route is a marvel of engineering. Don’t worry; there are ample pull-off spots along the winding highway for photo opportunities. On the opposite side, in Kranjska Gora, savor homespun dishes at Gostilna Pri Martinu, prepared the way a Slovenian grandmother would make them. Then, burn off those calories with a scenic walk around the ski village’s crystalline lake.
Day 7 & 8: Kobarid and Brda
Hiking around Kobarid offers a historical twist, not far from Bovec. Walking through the valley and up the ridges unveils a disturbing history from the First World War, when this area was known as the Soča Front – a tragic zone of trenches and bombs that divided Austro-Hungarian forces and the Italian army. Hundreds of thousands of soldiers lost their lives in this conflict; today, only hollowed-out bunkers and exposed underground walkways remain as somber reminders.
In the evening, indulge in one of Slovenia’s culinary gems. The nation’s most renowned chef, Ana Roš, gained international fame through the Netflix series Chef’s Table. Today, securing a seat at her restaurant Hiša Franko has become a highly sought-after reservation. She adopts a less strict approach than the New Nordic chefs of Copenhagen, showcasing locally foraged, fished, and found menu items—with playfulness evident in the servers’ interactions as they fill your glasses with local wines. If unable to snag a table there, the heaping platters of cured meats and exquisite beers at the more casual tavern Hiša Polonka, just a few miles away, will not disappoint.
The following day, embark on a short drive – approximately 40 minutes – from the wartime scars to the Brda region, located along the Italian border between the snow-capped Alps and the breezy Mediterranean Sea. Once divided by international accords, the line drawn between the two countries zigzags through individual vineyards. During the Yugoslav era, soldiers patrolled the grape fields to keep Slovenians within the socialist side of the border, with production managed by the state. Nowadays, the Brda region thrives, producing some of the world’s finest quality wines, largely attributed to the opoka soil beneath the vines, which is rich in marl and highly coveted.
Stop for lunch at Klinec in the border village of Medana for exquisite home-cured hams, slow-stewed meats, premium cheeses, and freshly baked bread – it’s everything you’d want from a meal in a small Italian hamlet, yet delightfully untouristed here in Slovenia. A visit to the nearby vineyard Marjan Simčič provides further insight into the intricacies of local wine making, complete with a tasting of the celebrated rebula grape (known as ribolla in Italy) and an introduction to the unique production of skin-contact wines; these are white blends made using techniques typically reserved for red blends.