If you spin a decorative globe to just the right spot, you’ll find a location where almost nothing exists but open blue water. Near the middle of this expansive feature—the Pacific Ocean—you will discover the Cook Islands.
Surrounded by nearly 2 million square kilometers of ocean, this tiny nation consists of fifteen small islands formed by ancient volcanoes. The geography here is unique and diverse, ranging from Jurassic Park-like mountains and jungle on Rarotonga, the most populous island, to the fossilized coral cliffs of Mangaia, which is believed to be among the oldest islands in the Pacific.
Farther north towards the equator, you will find low-lying coral atolls—seductive, fascinating landscapes that creep into our dreams, igniting an irresistible desire to travel there. However, due to their remoteness, few will ever manage to reach these hidden gems.
Your trip to the islands most likely begins in Rarotonga
Your adventure begins here. Rarotonga is fringed with sumptuous, soft coral sand beaches, tall coconut palms, and a dramatic mountainous interior. The contrast of verdant greens from the hills combines with the lagoon’s luxurious shades of blue, making Rarotonga irresistibly Instagrammable.
Visitors can typically reach this paradise only from a handful of gateways, including Auckland, Sydney, and Los Angeles. Nevertheless, Rarotonga offers vibrant holiday villas and a cosmopolitan dining scene that celebrates local flavors without the presence of big chains. A typical day can include snorkeling in the lagoon, hiking the island’s rugged interior, and enjoying dinner featuring top-rated New Zealand wines paired with freshly caught yellowfin.
Rarotonga’s picture-perfect Black Rock beach
On a sunny morning, I visited Punanga Nui market, which comes alive on Saturdays. Here, sellers offer freshly cooked food, tropical fruits like passionfruit and papayas, as well as artisanal goods such as homemade vanilla extract.
While sipping coffee, I engaged in conversation with a Cook Islands elder, who shared captivating stories about growing up in Rarotonga and his adventures beyond the reef.
Pukapuka: about as remote as you can get
When my family found ourselves stuck in the Cook Islands during early pandemic restrictions, I was offered an opportunity at the local newspaper. Months later, I was assigned to explore and write about the islands of Pukapuka, Manihiki, and Penrhyn.
Upon landing in Pukapuka, I immediately felt the remoteness of the islands. This limited resource environment fosters incredible creativity among the locals, who ingeniously adapt to their circumstances.
Manihiki and its stunning lagoon
Once the center of the Cook Islands black pearl industry, Manihiki possesses a unique charm. Many residents here have traveled abroad and bring a cosmopolitan feel to this remote setting. The lagoon’s small islets enrich the island’s geography and provide habitats for pearl farms.
Although foreign competition has threatened this once-thriving industry, the natural environment still flourishes. A dive reveals vibrant fish and abundant paua (abalone) awaiting transformation into delightful culinary creations.
Penrhyn’s coconut palms and fresh tuna
Our journey concluded in Penrhyn, which presents a less lush yet equally captivating landscape, with coconut palms swaying over a larger lagoon. We immersed ourselves in local culture, speaking with artisans, enjoying fresh tuna, and soaking in the tranquility that defines the Cook Islands.
This trip exemplified the beauty of a slower pace, allowing us to unplug from the chaos of daily life and immerse ourselves in nature’s embrace surrounded by warm company and delicious food.
