History of the Îles du Salut

Located in French Guiana, South America, the three Îles du Salut, or the Salvation Islands, served as a notorious penal colony from 1852 to 1953. This infamous site, often referred to as “the Green Hell,” housed over 80,000 prisoners from diverse backgrounds. Among them was the renowned French army captain Alfred Dreyfus, unjustly convicted of treason and sent to this harsh prison.

The islands saw a classification of prisoners: the least dangerous were held on Île Royale, while more threatening inmates were placed on Île St. Joseph. The most dangerous and political prisoners, like Dreyfus, were confined to Devil’s Island, the least hospitable setting.

Over the years, thousands perished in the penal colony due to escape attempts, illnesses, and brutal treatments. Only about 30,000 prisoners survived their terms, with those released still condemned to spend their lives in French Guiana.

Devil’s Island in Popular Culture

Devil’s Island has become a cultural icon, depicted in numerous films and literary works. The infamous Dreyfus Affair narrates the unjust conviction of its prisoners, captivating audiences worldwide.

Numerous escape attempts from “the Green Hell” were made, yet most ended in failure. A famed escape story is detailed in Henri Charrière’s Papillon, which was adapted into a feature film.

Following global scrutiny brought on by former inmate Renée Belbenoit—who escaped to the United States and published the impactful book, Dry Guillotine—the prison ultimately closed in the early 1950s.

The Island Landscape

The Îles du Salut are characterized by treacherous tides and formidable currents, contributing to their selection as a prison site. Strong currents made Devil’s Island inaccessible; thus, a cable system once connected it to Île St. Joseph, located just 200 meters away.

Tropical vegetation, including lush palm trees and dense forests, now obscures most ruins of this notorious penal colony, leaving an eerie but beautiful landscape.

Reaching the Salvation Islands

Access to the islands remains exclusively by boat. Departing from Kourou—approximately an hour’s drive from Cayenne—visitors can take various boat tours to Île St. Joseph and Île Royale. However, access to Devil’s Island, where political prisoners were held, remains strictly forbidden. It is advisable to join a guided tour, which typically offers information in both French and English, to explore the ruins of the other islands, available on half-day or full-day itineraries. Due to the hot and humid climate, packing water, sunscreen, hats, and suitable attire is recommended.

Deep sea fishing around the islands is known to be fruitful, attracting enthusiasts targeting mackerel, tuna, swordfish, marlin, and even sharks. Visitors have also enjoyed swimming in the safe waters near the islands’ jetties.

Île du Diable (Devil’s Island)

As the smallest of the three islands, Devil’s Island housed the most dangerous inmates. Currently, access is strictly prohibited due to strong currents, rendering it unsafe for visitors.

Île St. Joseph

Medium-sized Île St. Joseph features the lowest elevation among the trio and allows visitors to explore historical prison buildings surrounded by coconut palm trees. However, visits on days with nearby rocket launches at the space center are restricted.

Île Royale

The largest of the islands, Île Royale, boasts restored structures such as a chapel built by prisoners and the former director’s house. Visitors may enjoy an overnight stay in the director’s house, which has been transformed into a cozy hotel with an accompanying restaurant. Interestingly, unlike the harsh conditions faced by prisoners, the director’s residence offered comfortable amenities and stunning views over the water.