Like many districts centered around transportation hubs, Esquilino — the quartiere surrounding Rome’s Termini train station — has never been much of a tourist draw, mostly home to taxi stands, drab business hotels, and fast-food joints catering to hungry commuters.
However, that’s starting to change. The station now shelters the buzziest food hall in the city. Boutique inns and design-oriented properties are offering a chic alternative to vacationers and business travelers alike. Moreover, the blocks south of Termini blend seamlessly into the heart of Monti, a quiet gem of a neighborhood, abundant with cool boutiques and phenomenal ristoranti.
Discover the Best Stops in Esquilino
Amodei
Part bottle shop, part bistro, the walls of Amodei are lined with cases of Italian products and D.O.C. specialty foods: dried pasta, truffles, olive oils, tinned fish, local beers, and over 250 Italian wines. Buy some souvenirs and sit down for dinner or an aperitivo at the communal table, where you can order platters organized geographically — including the Lazio featuring capocollo and fiocco cheese, or the Parma with pecorino, mortadella, and ham — alongside fresh pizza bianca stuffed with burrata or chicory.
Bettoja Hotel Mediterraneo
Built in 1938, the family-owned Mediterraneo is an Art Deco monument designed by noted architect Mario Loreti. A $22 million renovation project has recently upgraded 70 rooms and suites and restored the 1940s-era furniture and priceless art in the public spaces (including many mosaics and wood inlays by Achille Capizzano, all protected by Italy’s Ministry of Cultural Heritage). The rooftop restaurant boasts an unmatched view; this establishment is the tallest building on the highest hill in Rome.
Madre
Madre is the eclectic restaurant located at Roma Luxus, a fashionably designed boutique hotel inside a former convent. Here, in a vibrant indoor-outdoor space full of plush couches and hanging plants, you will find tapas and sharing plates reflecting a mix of influences, including Iberian, South American, and regional Italian: ceviches, Serrano ham and pan con tomate, and the specialty, a sweet Roman bun called maritozzo, with nontraditional fillings like vitello tonnato (veal with tuna sauce) or burrata with Cantabrian anchovies.
Mercato Centrale Roma
The Mercato Centrale group is a network of community-focused food halls with the ambitious goal of reviving the hum and conviviality of Italy’s traditional central market. The Rome location, situated inside a Fascist-era building attached to Termini, houses Scabeat, a restaurant from chef Davide Scabin, along with 20 stalls from some of the city’s beloved food figures and artisans. Grab a trapizzino, the famous sandwich invented by pizzaiolo Stefano Callegari.
Suede
The trendy sneaker store Suede has been a fixture in Monti since it opened seven years ago, and its presence continues to grow. Last year, the menswear-focused flagship — part of the coveted Adidas Consortium, wherein influential retailers collaborate with the brand on custom footwear — relocated to a modern new space with an extensive selection of shoes. Furthermore, Suede has branched into womenswear, opening a new boutique that stocks street styles from brands like Sergio Tacchini — featuring the freshest kicks.
Trattoria Monti
No visit to the area would be complete without a stop at this beloved trattoria — however, planning ahead is essential as reservations are nearly required at this cozy restaurant, renowned as one of the best traditional spots in Rome. It feels like a slice of Monti history; before the vintage stores and cocktail bars, this rione functioned as a village within the city, and locals reminisce about the days filled with accordion music and Catholic processions. The tortello d’uovo — a giant pasta pocket encasing a gooey egg yolk — is Trattoria Monti’s signature dish.
