Discover Namibia: A Pandemic Travel Journey
From the relative proximity of my home in South Africa, I’ve spent the past decade touring Namibia and have always loved the sparse, beautiful landscapes. From driving 4WDs with family across the empty Namib Desert to solo missions catching feisty tiger fish in the Zambezi River, to watching Epupa Falls at sunrise from a stark rocky perch in Kaokoland, where goats from a nearby Himba homestead tinkled by in the breaking dawn.
I wanted to return in 2020 to share a milestone birthday, which coincided with Namibia’s celebration of 30 years of independence. Although lockdown thwarted travel plans globally, Namibia reopened relatively early in the pandemic, reigniting travel possibilities.
Government Response to Tourism Recovery
In an effort to revive the tourism sector, President Dr. Hage G. Geingob announced the International Tourism Revival Initiative in June 2020. By September 1, 2020, Hosea Kutako International Airport reopened for international tourists, with a targeted initiative for leisure travelers. As travel protocols evolved, they required a negative PCR test result for entry, initially imposing a seven-day quarantine that was later eased.
I usually drove to Namibia from Johannesburg, which took two days, risking the expiration of the PCR test. Therefore, I opted to fly instead, taking advantage of set flight dates launched by Westair Aviation at reasonable rates (approximately N$2500/US$166 one way).
Namibia’s Covid Response
During the announcement of the International Tourism Revival Initiative, the World Health Organisation praised Namibia for its swift and efficient handling of the pandemic. The vast territory and low population density were pivotal in controlling the virus’s spread. As of December 14, 2020, Namibia reported 16,726 infections and 163 deaths, significantly lower than neighboring South Africa.
Masks are mandatory in Namibia, including on flights. Arriving at Hosea Kutako International Airport in Windhoek, the process took about an hour, but this could lengthen with more passengers.
A Socially-Distant Road Trip to Sossusvlei
After being confined to a Johannesburg flat, I craved open spaces and focused my road trip on Namibia’s iconic destination – Sossusvlei. As the third-least densely populated country globally, Namibia offers ample opportunities for physical distancing.
I rented a lime green Suzuki Jimny 4WD from Namibia2Go and headed toward Sossusvlei. At McGregor’s Bakery, I noticed the drastic reduction in customer traffic. Typically buzzing with tour buses, it was now just me, highlighting the impact of the pandemic.
Experience at The Desert Grace
My first lodge was The Desert Grace by the Gondwana Collection, a significant player in Namibian tourism. The décor was vibrant and whimsical, combining joyfulness with a sense of safety through effective sanitation protocols. Guests were served at the buffet by masked and gloved staff, creating a comfortable dining experience.
The Wonders of Sossusvlei
Driving to the Namib-Naukluft National Park the following day brought me to Sesriem, where I noticed construction on a new tar road. My exploration continued into the NamibRand Nature Reserve, which serves as a natural habitat for wildlife migrations, offering tranquility without light pollution.
Staying at Kwessi Dune Lodge
At Kwessi Dune Lodge, our gracious hosts enforced health measures while providing insights into the park’s history and wildlife. I joined other international travelers, creating a shared sense of adventure. This area, transitioning from sheep farming to wildlife conservation, is now a vast natural habitat.
Tourism in Namibia, despite the pandemic challenges, remains crucial to the economy, supporting 10.2% of GDP and providing over 100,700 jobs. The ripple effect of tourism translates into significant local employment and development.
Returning Home After Adventure
As I prepared to return to South Africa, I had to endure a 48-hour wait in Windhoek for a COVID-19 test certification. Despite long queues at testing centers, I remained hopeful about returning home safely. Ultimately, my journey through the desolate beauty of Namibia was a rejuvenating experience.
