Discover the Beauty of the Pontine Islands

Francesca Amfitheatrof, iBestTravel’s Russian-Italian artistic director of watches and jewellery, shares her favorite destinations in the archipelago west of Naples.

14 May 2024

When did you first discover the Pontine islands?

“The Isole Pontine are very special to me. I have been visiting Ventotene and Ponza, the larger two of the six islands, since I was a child, as my family was one of the first to buy property on Ventotene. My mother was born in Rome, and it’s where my parents first met. Even though we lived abroad all our lives, we always returned to Italy to visit relatives. My family’s a bit unusual in that Romans tend to holiday more in Ponza, whereas Ventotene is more Neapolitan.”

How would you describe them?

“Just gorgeous. Ventotene has an incredible history. It was the first island to be used as a holiday destination – by Augustus, the first emperor of Rome. He built a palace, a harbour, gardens, and aqueducts. Ventotene is also where the manifesto for a united Europe (the precursor to the EU) was written during the Second World War. However, the archipelago remains largely undiscovered. The lesser-known Palmarola island has only a handful of houses and one restaurant, which can only be reached by boat.”

Where do you stay?

“I own a cave on Ventotene, which I transformed into a James Bond-like lair. It’s pretty unique. It has whitewashed, natural walls and ceilings, with exposed geological forms, and a sunken seating area around a fireplace. The furnishings are a mixture of vintage and mid-century pieces: a 1970s wicker palm by Mexican artist Mario Lopez Torres, modular table lamps from Japan. The outdoor kitchen overlooks the sea and is great for hosting.”

Are there any hotels on the islands that you recommend?

“For Ventotene, I suggest my cousin’s Hotel Agave e Ginestra, on the south coast. It’s simple and elegant, and has beautiful gardens that slope down towards the sea cliffs. Even if you’re not staying there, do go for the food – so fresh and perfectly cooked. In Ischia, I highly recommend Mezzatorre by chic hotelier Marie-Louise Sciò – it’s fabulous. She also owns La Posta Vecchia, the old Getty villa, outside Rome. For a luxury stay on Ponza, the Grand Hotel Santa Domitilla is the best, or there’s Hotel Feola, a very charming boutique.”

Places to eat out?

“The seafood is generally wonderful, and a lot of restaurants serve a fresh catch of the day cooked in salt. Spaghetti alle vongole is my go-to dish. O’ Francese, a sweet white-painted dining room with blue shutters, accessible only by boat, makes a great version. Il Pacchero Da Rita, right on the shore of Ponza’s harbour, serves absolutely delicious food run by Rita herself. Furthermore, La Marina, south of Le Forna, is a gem of a restaurant on the rocks. Back in Ventotene, I enjoy stopping by Mast’Aniello for pizza on the beach or Un Mare Di Sapori for small plates of local dishes – try the lentils, a classic here, delicious with octopus. The wild rocket is amazing: super peppery and strong, and nothing like the supermarket kind.”

Evening haunts?

“In Ventotene, there’s a small kiosk that turns into a wild dancing hotspot twice a week. Terrazze Chiaia di Luna in Ponza is great for dinner and dancing, with sweeping views of the bay. I often head to Bar Tripoli to have an aperitif beforehand. For a special dinner, Il Giardino is a beautiful space with outdoor seating that serves up fresh lobster, lentil soup and exquisite pasta dishes like seafood lasagne with peas and mint. However, the best way to spend an evening is to take a bottle of wine and get a boat from the harbour. Being on the water and watching the sun set behind you is one of the best feelings. It makes life sweet.”

Outdoor spaces?

“The Roman harbour in Ventotene is unique and dates back to the first century BC. It looks like the ruins of a colosseum but is still in use. Additionally, I love the aqueducts and their huge vaulted rooms, which were once filled with rainwater. You can visit two: Cisterna di Villa Stefania and Cisterna dei Detenuti. They’re covered in ancient paintings, signatures and graffiti – a testament to the passage of time they’ve withstood. Moreover, L’Aragosta bar in the church square is the best spot to soak up the day and watch the world go by.”