Discover the Enchanting Landscapes of Transylvania

Arriving in Romania at night by air, you can sense your destination approaching as the vibrant lights of towns and roads fade into darkness. The country is predominantly rural, featuring sprawling mountains, remote regions, and quaint villages nestled in lush forests. Cities like Sighisoara in Transylvania exude a charming atmosphere. Climbing the impressive medieval clock tower in the walled citadel, you are greeted with breathtaking views of woodlands stretching to the town’s edge.

The Allure of Sighisoara

During my summer visit, I stayed in an apartment block reminiscent of the Communist era along the charming banks of the Târnava Mare river. A thin mist curled over the vibrant green woods, offering an almost tropical ambiance. The river appeared brown after a recent rainstorm, and across the waters, the citadel’s turrets and bastions rose amidst the trees, creating a captivating skyline.

Historical Reflections

Reflecting on my first visit in June 1990, just weeks after the execution of President Ceausescu, I recall the atmosphere of change in the air. Romania experienced a tumultuous yet transformative revolution in December 1989. During my travels that year, I observed a softer, more harmonious countryside where villagers donned homemade attire and embraced a lifestyle steeped in tradition and nature.

Exploring the Verdant Trails

In the summer of 1990, I strolled through Sighisoara’s surrounding forests, venturing into bright sunshine and rolling hills. Below me lay Cris, a picturesque village adorned with terracotta-roofed houses and a majestic church tower, accompanied by the remnants of Bethlen Castle, a stronghold of the Bethlen family since medieval times.

Romantic Legends

My exploration led me to search for ruined castles, inspired by the legend of Dracula. The ruins of Bethlen Castle appeared romantic and enchanting, featuring ivy-covered stones and whispers of medieval history. It remains a testament to Transylvania’s storied past, adding to its allure.

On Horseback Through History

This summer, I embarked on a journey to retrace my steps from 30 years prior, choosing to explore on horseback this time. In the village of Apos, I witnessed dedicated volunteers from the Ambulance for Monuments, a group committed to preserving Romania’s heritage, as they repaired the local church’s roof.

Revitalizing Traditional Crafts

A wood-fired kiln nearby, run by young artisans, produces terracotta tiles essential for restoring roofs while teaching the timeless craft of tile-making, further enhancing Transylvania’s unique architectural charm.

The Saxon Legacy

The villages in this area, primarily Saxon settlements, hold deep historical roots tracing back to the 12th century. Following the revolution of 1990, many Saxons emigrated, leaving behind beautiful hamlets that now cry out for restoration. Their robust churches are quickly decaying, illustrating the urgent need for cultural preservation.

Unveiling Nature’s Beauty

With Mihai and Bianca Barbu as guides, I rode through idyllic meadows adorned with wildflowers and breathtaking views. The grandeur of the Carpathian Mountains framed the landscape, prompting awe and appreciation for the untouched beauty of Transylvania.

A Culinary Delight

Our journey led us to a local sheepfold where we savored hearty, traditional dishes made from locally sourced ingredients, providing a snapshot of rural life in the region.

Conservation Efforts

Florin, our host, emphasized their commitment to sustainable farming practices amidst growing concerns over industrial agriculture encroaching on this area. Nearby, villages like Mălâncrav and Biertan boast rich history, inviting exploration.

Continuing Historical Ties

Returning to Cris, I found the Bethlen family reviving their ancestral properties. Countess Gladys Bethlen and her son Nikolaus focus on restoring their historic roots, ensuring their ongoing connection to the village and its rich history.

Final Remarks

Sighisoara, with its medieval charm, remains a testament to the enduring presence of tradition in Transylvania. Riding through these stunning landscapes, I realized that the lasting beauty of this region captures the hearts of all who visit.