Tropical southern Taiwan is a land of turquoise waters and rocky coasts, night markets and beach bars, succulent seafood and fresh produce. As one of Southeast Asia’s unsung beach destinations, savvy regional travellers have been quietly arriving to relax in laid-back coastal towns and explore lush tropical parks.
Kaohsiung, Taiwan’s second-largest city, is transitioning from its industrial past into a cultural metropolis. Tainan, known for its high concentration of heritage sites, is making its temples and history more accessible to international visitors. Meanwhile, Pingtung County is emerging as a spot of stunning natural beauty and quirky festivals.
In 2018 – the Year of the Dog – the cacophony of folk rituals reaches a feverish pitch as many triennial festivals occur. This harmonizes with the perennial sounds of waves crashing and outdoor concerts, complemented by the vibrant music of millions enjoying local delicacies at all hours.
Worshiping the Plague Gods
Every three years, coinciding with the Chinese zodiac years of the Ox, Dragon, Sheep, and Dog, folk and Taoist festivals peak in southern Taiwan. During these magical years, elaborate rites and lively parades showcase months, even years, of preparation from local temples. Many of these festivals are rooted in the worship of plague gods, a tradition that has persisted due to historical concerns over illness and pestilence, despite advanced healthcare today.
The majestic Boat Burning Festival is celebrated along the southern coast and on Little Liuchiu Island near Pingtung and Qijin, close to Kaohsiung. This thousand-year-old tradition dates back to the Song dynasty and was brought to Taiwan by migrants from Fujian. The grandest manifestation of this festival is the Burning of the Wang Yeh Boats in Donggang. The eight-day festivities, starting on October 28, 2018, involve inviting the gods, offering feasts, and parading them around to collect plague demons, ultimately culminating in the burning of a vessel filled with effigies and offerings on the beach.
Year of Colourful Rites
These third years are known as ‘ritual years’, though ritual years occur at longer intervals as well. The three-year gap is believed to be associated with China’s imperial exam system. Traditionally, when candidates succeeded in the exams, their hometown temple would raise a flag with their name to celebrate, leading to festivities.
A ritual year is characterized by pilgrimages and large temple events featuring various deities, including the plague gods and Mazu, Taiwan’s patron goddess. Celebrations often include reenactments of ancient battles, ceremonial dances, performances by spirit mediums, and, of course, firecrackers. During these years, many Taoist temples may also conduct their variations of sacrificial boat rites, potentially involving boat burning.
The majority of these festivities are concentrated in Tainan, Taiwan’s oldest city, which serves as the hub for plague-god worship. Tainan historically welcomed seafarers and immigrants from Fujian, establishing many of the folk practices now recognized as part of Taiwan’s cultural heritage.
Welcoming Weather in Southern Taiwan
The Tropic of Cancer runs across Taiwan north of Tainan, placing southern Taiwan firmly in the tropical climate zone. With an average temperature of 24°C and minimal seasonal variation, outdoor enjoyment is possible year-round.
The southern tip of Taiwan is safeguarded as a national park: Kenting National Park. Here, in January, during average temperatures of 21°C, adventurous visitors can join hiking trails along the coastline or venture into the low mountains populated with wild macaques and deer, or cycle up to lush terraces for breathtaking views of turquoise waters crashing against unique rock formations.
When summer temperatures soar past 30°C, it becomes prime time for water activities. Surfing, snorkeling, and diving are exceptional, while the charming resort villages in Kenting offer serene swimming opportunities alongside sunset barbecues. In April, Spring Scream takes center stage as a vibrant outdoor music festival, drawing fans from across Asia to camp in the park. This event ranks as one of the south’s two major music festivals, alongside Megaport, notable for its lively, authentic southern Taiwanese ambiance. Megaport is held in March, next to Kaohsiung’s magnificent harbor.
Adventures on a Coral Island
On Little Liuchiu Island, a coral island located just off the coast of Donggang, outdoor activities mix seamlessly with local culture. Gorgeous beaches and average summer and winter temperatures of 28°C and 17°C, respectively, create ideal conditions for scuba diving and snorkeling year-round. The island is abundant in marine biodiversity; divers report encounters with green sea turtles and vibrant tropical fish, while starfish, sea urchins, and other tidal creatures abound. The island also benefits from refreshing breezes, making sailing and windsurfing popular pastimes. While on land, exploring by scooter or bicycle allows for visits to limestone caves, unique rock formations such as Vase Rock, and indulging in delicious seafood skewers. Sanlong Temple stands as a significant site for plague-god worship in the region.
A Fruity Feast
Thanks to its unique location and varied topography, Taiwan is a paradise for fruits from various climates. In tropical southern Taiwan, visitors find some of the sweetest and juiciest fruits, which are plentiful and often affordable. Depending on the season, stalls brim with vibrant pineapples, mangoes, papayas, wax apples, and dragon fruits. Pickled pineapple, for example, is a common ingredient in Taiwanese chicken soup, while fresh loaves of bread are sometimes studded with dried guava or longan soaked in local liquor. Gourmet restaurants creatively utilize sweetsops (sugar apples) in high-end ‘Taiwan-inspired’ delicacies.
But that’s not all; night market vendors often prepare avocado drinks blended with milk and crème caramel, providing a refreshing counterpoint to grilled seafood and other delicious night market offerings. Kenting’s Night Market stands out as one of the best locations to experience this vibrant food scene.
Taiwanese Artisan Chocolate
Some of the island’s exquisite fruits find their way into chocolate creations. Taiwan is emerging as a chocolate destination, with a significant portion of the island’s cacao cultivated in the south.
This region offers plentiful opportunities to sample premium tree-to-bar chocolate, including the chance to visit the sun-kissed farms of Pingtung County. Guests can indulge in antioxidant-rich treats and delectable chocolate desserts while participating in tours that showcase cacao cultivation and harvesting process, as well as chocolate crafting workshops filled with samples to take home.
