Sasha Brady shares insights from a recent trip to Inis Mór in the Aran Islands, highlighting exceptional places to eat, drink, and experience the island’s charm.
Inis Mór (Inishmore) is a remarkable destination, both in filming locations and natural beauty. Nestled in the Atlantic, it is surrounded by mist and rain, with expansive green fields and scenic vistas. When the sun breaks through, it feels like a warm welcome to this enchanting place that showcases the wild adventure of nature.
This Irish-speaking island boasts a resident population of around 850 individuals and serves as the last glimpse of Irish land before reaching America on the horizon. It is part of the trio of Aran Islands that captivate visitors with their breathtaking landscapes.
The Aran Islands evoke a sense of otherworldliness that has inspired countless writers, poets, and artists. The image of Ireland often conjured in people’s minds, with thatched cottages, rugged beaches, and rolling green hills fringed with stone walls, is undeniably present here. This region has remarkably preserved its traditions, language, and charming aesthetics, avoiding the pitfalls of mass tourism.
Following much of the filming for Banshees of Inisherin, I visited Inis Mór in October, just ahead of the film’s release, eager to witness its beauty firsthand.
Starting the Day in Inis Mór
A sunrise walk. Many tourists visit Inis Mór for only a few hours before heading back; however, they miss out on the serenity and magic of early mornings when the island is at its tranquil best. Early risers can enjoy the stillness and peace before the day begins.
I chose to stay at Tigh Fitz, a cozy B&B renowned for its excellent hospitality and scrumptious traditional Irish breakfast. The highlight of my stay was owner Penny, who treated guests like family. Additionally, the B&B’s location near the water provided a lovely garden view to experience the stunning sunrise. Each morning, I would sip tea while marveling at the sky’s transformation from amber to pink, creating a moment of pure enchantment.
Exploring Inis Mór’s Rich History
A guided tour. The winding roads of Inis Mór are rich in historical significance, and there’s no better way to uncover the island’s tales than through a local guide. During my guided tour with Cyril O’Flaherty, I gained a deeper understanding of the filming locations of Banshees of Inisherin while enjoying his captivating storytelling.
Cyril illuminated the island’s history and introduced us to significant landmarks like Dún Aonghasa, a Bronze Age ring fort recognized as one of Europe’s most important archaeological sites. His extensive knowledge ensured that every question we had was answered with depth and clarity.
Lunch at Teach Nan Phaidí
The best spot for a satisfying lunch is undoubtedly Teach Nan Phaidí, a family-run cafe where sisters Nan and Patricia serve delightful freshly cooked meals. On a chilly day, you might find a welcoming turf fire crackling in the background.
I savored a fresh crab salad accompanied by traditional Irish soda bread, while neighboring tables tempted me with dishes like smoked salmon salad and hearty beef and Guinness stew. Do leave room for dessert, as the homemade cakes are simply irresistible!
Culinary Delights at Joe Watty’s Bar
For dinner, Joe Watty’s Bar beckoned. I couldn’t resist the fresh mussels in dill and garlic cream sauce paired with fries. Enveloped in the warm atmosphere enhanced by live music, I lost track of time and ended up staying much longer than planned.
Conversations with owner Grace O’Flaherty shared delightful anecdotes, including tales of Brendan Gleeson’s musical interludes during filming. This added an exciting local touch to an already enjoyable dining experience.
Don’t Forget to Bring Home an Aran Sweater
The iconic Aran sweater has a storied heritage that originated from these islands. Traditionally, each family crafted unique designs in these knit sweaters to distinguish members lost at sea.
While purchasing an Aran sweater from souvenir shops on the mainland is convenient, I opted to buy a hand-knit piece directly from An Tuirne knit shop, where artisans carry on the legacy. The authentic craftsmanship reflected its price of €290, but the warmth and quality promise a lifetime of use.
Sasha Brady experienced Inis Mór as part of an exploration of Ireland’s cultural and natural heritage.
This article was first published on October 20, 2022, and updated on March 16, 2023.
