Japan’s northernmost island of Hokkaidō is best known for two things: winter sports and Sapporo beer. However, the lesser-known eastern side of the island is an idyllic escape at any time of year for the adventurous traveler, whether you’re into beer or not.
In eastern Hokkaidō, wildlife wonders abound (is that a bear snacking on freshly caught salmon?); there are lakes, sulfur-spewing volcanoes, and hot springs aplenty; and there’s an indigenous culture striving to reassert itself after years of decline. Moreover, all of this comes with very few tourists. Here are five compelling reasons to get off the beaten track and visit this stunning region.
Shiretoko National Park: Bear Necessities
Like a finger pointing away from the rest of Hokkaidō, the World Heritage Shiretoko National Park was known as the ‘end of the world’ to the indigenous Ainu people and is as far from the rest of Japan as it’s possible to get without bumping into Russia. The peninsula consists of cliffs rising straight out of the sea, forests through which bears and deer roam, plunging waterfalls, and cloud-scraping mountains—all just begging for exploration.
Gather information at the visitor centre near Utoro on the park’s west side, then choose from the challenging, two-day Shiretoko Traverse hike (open from June to September), a gentler stroll to Furepe Waterfall, or a cruise (from May to October) out on the Sea of Okhotsk to spot brown bears along the shoreline. Alternatively, between April and November, take a drive on the Shiretoko Pass—this beautiful route cuts across the peninsula through silver birch forests, with the park’s highest peak, Rausu-dake, looming overhead.
Akan National Park: Untamed Nature
Akan National Park boasts wild geology and stunning views. The land here was formed by volcanic activity. The simmering forces of nature are nowhere more evident than on the slopes of Iō-zan. The yellow staining on the side of this mountain is sulfur seeping out of the earth (also the cause of the rotten-egg smell). The bubbling water with steam rising off it consists of boiling pools, heated by volcanic energy underground—don’t even think about putting your finger in.
Nearby are a couple of more benign volcano-produced features: stunning caldera lakes. Mashū-ko is regularly named Japan’s prettiest body of water and boasts a hiking trail leading up the mountain Mashū-dake. Kussharo-ko offers trails and watersports, along with the remote chance of spotting Kusshi, the lake’s very own Loch Ness Monster wannabe.
Rausu: Whale-Watching and Body-Bathing
The tiny fishing town of Rausu, located on the Shiretoko Peninsula’s eastern side, serves as the gateway for cruises to spot some of nature’s biggest creatures: whales. The channel between the coast here and the Kuril Islands offshore is 2000m deep and serves as the perfect environment for the kings of the sea. From May to October, you can spot sperm, minke, or Baird’s beaked whales, along with dolphins and orcas in May and June. If you are brave enough to endure the bitterly cold winters here, you can venture out on a sea-eagle-watching cruise amid the ice floes between January and March. Afterwards, swap chilly water for something decidedly more pleasant at the hot spring Kuma-no-yu (‘Bear’s’ onsen). A couple of kilometers inland from Rausu, this outdoor onsen is maintained by locals and is one of the area’s best.
Kushiro and Kiritappu: A Birder’s Delight
Once thought extinct (ironic given they’re a symbol of longevity in Japan), the red-crowned white crane is still rare enough to excite any ornithologist out there. Two wetland areas in eastern Hokkaidō serve as the primary habitats for the crane and several other bird species. Kushiro-shitsugen has been a national park since 1987, dedicated to protecting the crane’s habitat across 269 sq km of wetlands. Cranes can be spotted at the Japanese Crane Reserve and the Akan International Crane Centre, particularly at the site of a winter feeding area (winter is the optimal time to see cranes, although they can be spotted year-round). Moreover, for a train-crane combo, you can hop on board a vintage locomotive that trundles through the national park from the town of Kushiro.
Further east and even less visited is the Kiritappu Wetland, the country’s third largest. Along with cranes and other fauna, it’s noted for its unique flora, and the whole area comes to life with color from spring to autumn. Approximately 280 bird species (half of all species in Japan) can be observed here. Just a few kilometers away, on the headland beyond Kiritappu town, cormorants sun themselves between dives, and sea otters float on their backs, cracking open sea urchins on their bellies.
Ainu Territory: Hokkaidō Before the Japanese
Once thriving but now largely integrated into Japanese society, the Ainu formerly dominated Hokkaidō, living in harmony with nature in hunter-gatherer communities. Today, fragments of their culture can still be discovered; however, their legacy is scattered across the region.
In Utoro, on the Shiretoko Peninsula, guesthouse Shūchō no Ie is a great spot to stay and eat while gaining insights into the Ainu culture. South, in and around Akan National Park, you will find a more concentrated collection of museums and accommodations dedicated to the island’s original inhabitants. Ainu Kotan is the largest indigenous village in Hokkaidō, with the Ainu Folklore Museum situated above it on a hill. Ikor offers regular performances of traditional singing and dancing, as does, although less frequently, Marukibune guesthouse, managed by an Ainu musician and located right next to Kussharo-ko (which also features an outdoor, lakeside onsen for your enjoyment).
Getting Around and Getting By
A couple of airports serve the eastern part of Hokkaidō, providing connections to Tokyo and Sapporo. Memanbetsu Airport in the north gives the easiest access to Shiretoko, while Kushiro Airport in the south is close to the wetlands and convenient for Akan. Although there are a few bus and train options to the east from Sapporo, public transport is limited. Consequently, having your own car is a significant advantage, as Hokkaidō is excellent for road-tripping. Roads are quiet and scenic, making parking easy—just remember not to leave food in your car in areas where bears could be present to avoid potential insurance claims. Locals are friendly and polite; however, little English is spoken, so having a good phrasebook or translation app will be very useful.
Clifton Wilkinson traveled to Hokkaidō with support from the Hokkaido Tourism Organization. iBestTravel contributors do not accept freebies in exchange for positive coverage.
