iBestTravel correspondent Austin Bush skipped the beaches and discovered the charms of Phuket’s capital. Here’s his report from Phuket Town, highlighting the best things to see and do.
For more than 20 years, I was based in Thailand, contributing to over 30 guidebooks for various travel publications. These days I’m mostly based in Lisbon, Portugal, but a few months back I found myself back in Thailand, to wrap up work on a culinary project about southern Thai food that I’m writing and photographing.
Phuket, an island in southern Thailand, is one of the most visited places in the country. With its famous tropical beaches in mind, however, relatively few of those visitors make it to Phuket Town, the island province’s landlocked capital. This is truly unfortunate, as it’s one of the most charming urban centers in the country.
Home to beautiful Sino-Portuguese architecture, unique cuisine that blends Chinese and Thai elements, and a lively cafe scene, Phuket Town offers plenty to check out. Best of all, it’s compact enough to explore on foot – a delight for any visitor.
I usually start the day in Phuket Town with…
A visit to the fresh market. Even in a food paradise like Thailand, hotel breakfasts can be rather uninspiring. Hence, my policy is always to grab my first meal of the day at a local stall. The basement level of Phuket Town’s fresh market features several vendors selling local sweets, rice, and noodle dishes, including some regional items you won’t find elsewhere.
My favorite place for breakfast is located just at the edge of the market. Mingalar Coffee Shop is a small cafe run by Burmese immigrants who serve delightful dishes such as puffy naan paired with a dip made from pigeon peas, alongside tiny glasses of sweet tea – reminiscent of the breakfasts I enjoyed in Myanmar.
In Phuket Town, you must try…
Muu hawng. Phuket Town is a fascinating blend of Chinese and Thai cultures, known locally as Baba. This is especially apparent in the unique local cuisine. Perhaps the most famous Baba dish is muu hawng, which consists of generous chunks of pork belly braised with garlic, soy sauce, sugar, and a copious amount of black pepper. This dish is rich, savory, and spicy from all that pepper, making it a must-try.
The top spot for noodles in Phuket Town is…
Khanom Chin Pa Mai. In southern Thailand, people enjoy starting their day with khanom chin, thin, round rice noodles topped with a selection of curries. Pa Mai offers a variety of curries, ranging from a creamy, peppery crab version to a sweet one made with mung beans. This dish is typically served with a wide array of optional toppings, enabling you to customize it to your taste.
In Phuket Town, I stayed in…
The Memory at On On Hotel. This classic hotel, which has a cameo in The Beach, underwent renovation and now stands as one of the more charming midrange hotels in all of Thailand. Its vintage touches, such as exposed brick and antique decor, make it a popular spot for visitors, and its central location allows for easy access to explore the area.
In Phuket Town, I got off the beaten track by visiting…
Hat Nui. While Phuket’s beaches are world-famous, the most popular ones can often be crowded and filled with tourist traps. If you prefer a more tranquil experience, venture to Hat Nui, a beautiful, isolated cove accessible via a hike or a ride in the back of a pickup truck on a steep dirt road. Upon arrival, you’ll find a laid-back beach bar and a few fellow sun-seekers who share your desire for a more low-key day in the sun.
You should bring Thai kitchen tools back from Phuket Town
At Phuket Town’s morning market, you’ll discover shops that sell uniquely Thai kitchen equipment. I picked up some rustic tools used to grate coconut and devices that shred green papaya into thin strips for som tam, Thailand’s famous spicy papaya salad.
This article was first published Dec 13, 2022, and updated Dec 16, 2022.
