Exploring St. John’s Pristine Beaches: Family Villas, Clear Waters, and Sea Turtles

A Personal Journey to St. John

This travel writer cherished memories of visiting St. John with her father. After her father’s passing and the devastation from Category 5 hurricanes in the U.S. Virgin Islands, she returned to create new family memories in a place that holds deep significance.

A Memorable Adventure

One hot, windy afternoon in February 2007, my dad and I donned flippers and swam out of the cove at Hawksnest Beach, located on the stunning northern shore of St. John. Our plan was to snorkel all seven beaches of Caneel Bay Resort.

Being the only one of the resort’s beaches facing east, Hawksnest is famous for its afternoon winds. Unfortunately, we missed our chance to swim in the tranquil morning conditions; that was our first mistake. The second mistake was underestimating the swim around Hawksnest Point, which would lead us to a beach beyond the rocky outcrop. Lastly, we were overly confident about our abilities.

Although we had experience here, we thought the swim would take a maximum of an hour. Instead, we faced stronger currents than we anticipated, leading to a more challenging situation. Bobbing in 80-foot-deep water, boats zipped past us, oblivious to our presence. As we grew fatigued, we struggled onward, hoping either for rescue or to find the other side of the point, until we finally reached the shore of Turtle Bay, shaken and exhausted.

We later joked about our misadventure, which turned out to be our last great adventure together in our beloved location. Two years after that swim, a slight pain in my father’s leg marked the onset of ALS. After his passing in 2011, our family brought his ashes back to St. John.

Since that life-changing event, I have returned to this island frequently, exploring snorkeling spots and coral reefs while cherishing the connection to his memory. I had planned to visit again in 2017, but that September, back-to-back Category 5 hurricanes, Irma and Maria, devastated the islands, destroying Caneel Bay Resort and nearly all of St. John.

St. John’s Recovery

This narrative, however, is not one of sorrow but of resilience. St. John is the smallest of the primary U.S. Virgin Islands, measuring seven miles long and three miles wide. The United States acquired this territory from Denmark in 1917 for $25 million, aiming to establish a naval base to deter potential German invasions. About 35 years later, American financier Laurance Rockefeller discovered St. John while yachting. He remarked, “The unspoiled nature of the area appealed to me, and I wish to preserve it against overdevelopment.” Between 1952 and 1956, Rockefeller purchased 5,000 acres—nearly 60% of the island—from various parties and subsequently donated the land for the creation of Virgin Islands National Park.

Today, almost all of St. John retains its unspoiled charm. My family and I rented a villa called Hale Lani in Maria Bluff, situated high above Great Cruz Bay, just south of the island’s main town, Cruz Bay, last January.

When we arrived, vibrant pink bougainvillea adorned the wall as we settled in. The villa’s spacious lanai connected the pool to the main living area, with doors framing the water like a picturesque view. We opened them just before magic hour, a perfect time to enjoy Hale Lani’s bar—a bar traditionally restocked by guests before their departure. While our sons dove into the pool, we indulged in some Cruzan rum mixed with pineapple juice, leaving the same behind when we departed.

Much of St. John has been rebuilt since the storms. However, curious about the underwater conditions, I chartered the Tropicat, a 26-foot power catamaran operated by Calypso Charters, to take our family to virgin snorkeling sites within the national park.

We first arrived at Scott Beach, a snorkeling spot my dad loved and another of the seven beaches on the grounds of the still-closed Caneel Bay Resort. While land access to the beach is restricted, we were able to swim in via the sea. I jumped from the boat, hoping to rediscover the colorful underwater world filled with seagrass and hawksbill turtles I remembered.

However, the hurricanes had altered the seafloor dramatically. The seagrasses had vanished. Then, out of nowhere, a flash of color appeared: a four-foot-long barracuda echoed the unpredictable wonders of the underwater realm. Where turtles once thrived, this magnificent predator now ruled the depths.

Later, our captain, Jason Ward, skillfully maneuvered away from incoming squalls to take us to Lameshur Bay on the island’s southern shore. “This is one of my favorite snorkeling spots,” he mentioned, and I quickly understood why. The cerulean water sparkled invitingly. However, the seabed featured a ledge that plunged down 70 feet. From the surface, the beauty remained hidden, but just below lay a vibrant, alive, Technicolor world. On a sloping rock outcrop, a tiny hawksbill turtle emerged from the depths, snacking on the vivid coral.

St. John, referred to as Love City by locals, is famous for its signature drink, the painkiller, which consists of dark rum, orange juice, pineapple juice, and cream of coconut. While many claim to have the best version, I prefer the frozen painkiller served at the Longboard, a casual eatery in Cruz Bay that opened in 2015. Following the hurricanes, enthusiasm for the Longboard’s refreshing drinks and chili-mango-glazed wings has grown among both locals and visitors.

We discovered several other buzzing eateries around the island, including Pizza Pi, a floating pizzeria located in Christmas Cove that serves outstanding wood-fired pizzas. In Coral Bay, the swim-up restaurant Lime Out permits patrons to dine in floating pods while enjoying blackened-tuna tacos and coco coladas, made with dark rum and fresh lime juice.

Other ventures are similarly propelling St. John’s revival. One morning, we boarded a shuttle to Lovango Cay, a private island just a 10-minute boat ride from Cruz Bay. Lovango is now home to Lovango Resort & Beach Club, a project from the owners of Little Gem Resorts. This newly established resort features luxury tree houses, glamping tents, and a three-bedroom villa, along with beach chairs, cabanas for day guests, and dining options. Lovango seems poised to take the place of the closed Caneel Bay Resort.

While my children enjoyed the crystalline swimming pool, I ventured on a golf cart to explore the island’s less developed side. Here, lush vegetation transitioned into a rugged landscape where the waves crashed against the rocks. On a more secluded pebbled beach, I snorkeled in an almost forgotten cove, where queen angelfish, as large as my head, weaved in and out between the boulders.

Where to Stay

• Hale Lani: This four-bedroom villa in Maria Bluff boasts unobstructed sea views from every room
• Lovango Resort & Beach Club: This newly opened private-island resort offers glamping, tree houses, and luxury villas, along with beach club, pool, dining, and shopping.

Where to Eat and Drink

• Lime Out: Situated in Coral Bay, this floating restaurant allows guests to relax while enjoying tacos and refreshing cocktails.
• Pizza Pi: Located in Christmas Cove, this unique wood-fired pizza spot is accessible only by boat and is a must-try.
• The Longboard: Known for its refreshing frozen Painkiller cocktail, this restaurant also serves excellent fresh-catch ceviche and ahi tuna lettuce wraps.

What to Do

• Calypso Charters: Enjoy half- and full-day trips on their catamaran Tropicat, operated by Scott and Sheree York.
• Francis Bay Beach: A serene and sandy beach on the North Shore with calm waters and a nearby reef.
• Hawksnest Bay: Home to a well-preserved reef, Hawksnest Bay is ideal for snorkelers seeking to spot hawksbill and green turtles along with amenities like public beaches, parking, and restrooms.

While St. John faces changes, the island remains resilient. Those who visit, like me, return for the precious moments and unforgettable experiences, whether it’s a hawksbill turtle swimming gracefully through the water or the stunning hues of the sea.