iBestTravel writer Joe Davis has visited West Cork in Ireland at least once a year since he was born, and he has compiled the ultimate road trip itinerary to help you sample the best of West Cork in just four days.
I didn’t get to drive this route myself until I was 21. However, over the last eight years, I’ve made up for it by tracing almost all of the 1,000 km of craggy coastline County Cork has to offer. I’ll let you in on a secret: by following the coast, you will discover remarkable sights and delightful surprises.
Day 1: Cork City to Clonakilty
Driving time: 60 mins
Arrive in Cork City, and in the evening, head straight out to a traditional Irish music session at the authentic Sin É. On my most recent visit, I was pleasantly surprised to see a surge in independent businesses since my last trip five years ago, such as the popular coffee shop Cork Coffee Roasters and craft beer stop Franciscan Well Brewery.
Due to the airport’s proximity to the city, Cork is an easy starting point. However, if you are short on time, consider skipping it. This road trip excels with its stunning rural landscapes, captivating coastline, and charming towns. Just a short drive away, there is so much more to see, so hit the country roads.
Award-winning Clonakilty is Irish charm at its best. Balancing between run-down rustic and the cusp of cool, the welcoming high street is often adorned with bunting and hanging baskets. Try to time your stay in Clonakilty over a weekend or a Monday for the best chance of catching a traditional music session.
De Barra’s Folk Club is a must-visit music destination. Squeeze past the queue at the bar and make your way to the back, where it opens into an indoor greenhouse with a stage. The walls are covered with a mass of music memorabilia, including the faces of Bowie and Dylan, who’ve played here in the past. Attend the Monday night ‘trad session,’ and you’ll see why it’s one of my favorite nights; the event has been running for 30 years and is led by a bearded local with a dog on his lap. Arrive early to grab a seat.
I always make time for the short drive out to Inchydoney Beach, which passes vast tidal flats that are home to numerous seabirds. The seemingly endless beach stretches across either side of a small peninsula. For panoramic views, I drive to Dunmore House Hotel, overlooking the waves.
Stay: Macliam Lodge Guesthouse
Don’t miss: Inchydoney Beach
Eat: Seafood at An Súgán
Day 2: Clonakilty to Bantry
Driving time: 90 mins
From Clonakilty, head west on the N71 towards Warren Strand. It is worth stopping here for a short cliff walk—if you’re lucky, you might spot a puffin or even a breaching whale.
Next, you’ll find the atmospheric Drombeg Stone Circle, hidden in a sunken field. Minutes away is the picturesque village of Glandore, overlooking a spectacular inlet dotted with yachts zig-zagging around fluorescent buoys. I prefer outdoor seating at Hayes Bar or The Glandore Inn (the only two choices) and always order the open salmon sandwich, made from fresh salmon caught in Union Hall, the next village along.
The next stop is Lough Hyne, a rare inland saltwater lake and an oasis for marine life.
Make sure you don’t miss the turning—it’s signposted but sharp. I come here to swim; if I’m feeling brave, I jump straight in, and the cold soon passes. I warm up with a 2 km hike offering aerial views of the lake.
If you have time, make a detour to the small fishing village of Baltimore. There’s nowhere better to sit with a Guinness and watch the boats go by. From here, you can get a boat out to one of the surrounding islands or enjoy a whale watching tour.
Next, follow the coastal route to Bantry. I love Bantry for its quaint pubs and restaurants that serve fresh seafood, and it serves as the perfect base for exploring the surrounding peninsulas. Ma Murphy’s is an odd hybrid between an old grocery store and a pub with a huge garden, while The Fish Kitchen serves warming seafood chowder, perfect on a drizzly day.
Bantry is where the Sheep’s Head Peninsula begins. I’ve driven it in an afternoon, and if visibility is good, The Tin Pub in Ahakista and Finn Mac Cool’s Seat are definitely worth the detour for unbeatable views.
Stay: A local B&B or hotel
Don’t miss: Lough Hyne
Eat: Union Hall salmon in Glandore
Day 3: Bantry to Allihies
Driving time: 90 mins
Glengarriff is located just along the water from Bantry. This drive showcases seaweedy inlets, allowing you to pull over and admire the unspoilt views. Thanks to the Gulf Stream, Glengariff has its own microclimate; you’ll notice the flora here is dense and tropical. The real highlight is the woodland walk and swimming around the Blue Pool—a surprisingly warm spot during the summer, surrounded by beautiful mountains. Don’t miss the short boat ride over to Garnish Island for seal spotting and stunning gardens reminiscent of Italy.
Glengarriff serves as an ideal starting point for the Beara Peninsula drive. Though it is overshadowed by the more famous Ring of Kerry, the Beara Peninsula is shorter yet equally scenic, offering dramatic cliffs and beaches that will surprise you. I like to stop in the small fishing town of Castletownbere before continuing to Ireland’s only cable car at Dursey Island. Recently, I discovered a tiny hidden beach here called White Strand, with vistas that rival the Mediterranean. Nearby, Ballydonegan Beach is perfect for summer swimming and is within walking distance from Allihies, which offers several guesthouses and the colorful O’Neill’s pub with weekly traditional music sessions.
Stay: Beachview Bed and Breakfast, Allihies
Don’t miss: Dzogchen Beara Meditation Retreat Centre for unique views
Eat: The Fish Kitchen, Bantry
Day 4: Allihies to Cork City
Driving time: 3 hours
Your sat-nav may direct you back the way you came towards Cork, but ignore it. Instead, continue around the peninsula, passing through the rainbow-colored villages of Ardgroom and Eyeries, and briefly hopping across the border to County Kerry, where hairpin bends hug the coastline. At the village of Lauragh, follow the signs for The Healy Pass and trundle along this extraordinarily peaceful mountain route, accompanied only by flocks of sheep.
Gougane Barra Forest Park marks my final stop. Although it’s not the most direct route to get here, the detour pays off if you enjoy sweeping mountains and waterfalls. The tiny St Finbarr’s Oratory sits out on the choppy lake, dwarfed by its dramatic surroundings. You can park for free and explore an array of signposted hikes—a tranquil end to a whirlwind road trip.
Don’t miss: The Healy Pass
Eat: Homemade soup and soda bread at Cronin’s Cafe
