Discover the Lakes of Savoy
Mention Savoy, and the first thing to spring to mind is likely to be the Alps – Mont Blanc in particular. Where there are mountains, there are generally lakes as well. In Savoy, the prominent lakes include Geneva (or Léman), Annecy, Bourget, and Aiguebelette, with the city of Grenoble nearby.
Together, these lakes create an excellent backdrop for exploration, especially during spring and summer. Their flat, reflective surfaces draw the eye outward across the landscape, creating a unique visual experience.
A Complex History
Savoy has an uncommonly complicated history, from being coveted and contested to transitioning through various statuses: first a county, then a duchy, and eventually becoming a kingdom. Post-1860 annexation by France, it was divided into two departments: Savoie and Haute-Savoie. This simplification in referencing Savoy offers a useful context for visitors.
A Journey Through the Lakes
Evian-les-Bains
Starting my journey around the lakes in Evian-les-Bains, located on the southern shore of Lake Geneva, I was accompanied by Céline Guillermin, a local whose charm and humor made the trip even more enjoyable. Evian lives up to its reputation as a prosperous spa town, famed for its mineral-rich water.
The old town around the cathedral remains atmospheric with a maze of passages, arcades, and charming townhouses divided by picturesque canals. An impression of cleanliness and health prevails as I explore the neatly mown grassy squares and perfectly tended flowerbeds, enjoying the serene beauty of the clear waters.
Annecy
From Evian, we headed southwest to Annecy, a city that flourished as a Catholic Counter-Reformation center in the late 16th century. The old town, dense with character, offers delightful charm in its winding passages.
Lake Annecy, known for its shifting moods, reveals its beauty best from the village of Talloires on its eastern shore. The renowned painter Paul Cézanne famously captured its essence during his visit in 1896, aligning perfectly with the landscape of the area.
Aix-les-Bains
Next, we visited Aix-les-Bains on Lake Bourget. Though it has fallen from its glamorous past, remnants of its romantic allure linger, especially during a boat tour to see the majestic Hautecombe Abbey, a 900-year-old monastery on the lake’s western shore.
Chambéry
Chambéry, a charming town not far from the lakes, is historically significant as a former crossroads of Western Europe. Despite not being located directly on a lake, its proximity to Bourget and Aiguebelette makes it a valuable base for exploration.
Aiguebelette
Aiguebelette, the smallest of the four Savoyard lakes, offers a more intimate experience than its larger counterparts. Popular with families and water enthusiasts, it boasts a serene beauty with its emerald waters surrounded by scenic hillsides.
The Natural Beauty of Savoy
The view of Aiguebelette from a modest hotel’s car park during my last afternoon captured my heart, showcasing nature’s unmatched beauty. The stunning reflections of sky and forest in the water truly represent the splendid essence of the region.
Dining Options in Savoy
La Verniaz
For a pleasant afternoon lunch in Evian-les-Bains, La Verniaz offers a lovely courtyard setting where you can enjoy specialties like escargots and local fish dishes.
Address: 1404 Avenue du Léman – Neuvecelle 74500 Evian-les-Bains
Abbaye / Auberge
In Talloires, the Abbaye de Talloires and Auberge du Père Bise serve not only as lodging but also as outstanding dining locations. The latter features two Michelin stars and offers a relaxed elegance along the waterfront.
Address: Abbaye de Talloires, Chemin des Moines, 74290 Talloires – France; 303 Rte du Port, 74290 Talloires-Montmin
Folie
Folie in Chambéry is known for its experimental cuisine, where the chef blends Malaysian influences with Savoyard staples, presenting an exciting dining experience.
Address: Restaurant Folie, 23 rue Bonivard, 73000 Chambéry, Savoie
La Villa Ginette
Overlooking Lake Aiguebelette, La Villa Ginette quickly became a favorite for its stunning views and delicious offerings, including pan-fried perch.
Address: HR64+2Q, 73610 Aiguebelette-le-Lac
Whether you seek serene lakes, charming towns, or culinary delights, Savoy offers a rich tapestry of experiences that are sure to leave you enchanted.