The Allure of Río Futaleufú
For more than a century, gauchos and adventurers have been drawn to the mighty Río Futaleufú, in Chilean Patagonia. It is a river laden with silt and gravel, surging ominously opaque between boulders. Locals constructed a footbridge due to the dangerous fording conditions in winter.
This region in northern Patagonia features powerful rivers that shape the landscape, create opportunities, and dictate the course of lives. They are, however, capricious allies. T.S. Eliot’s portrayal of the Mississippi River as a “strong brown god” resonates here as well. “Never trust a river,” is the wisdom echoed by local gauchos.
Exploring Chilean Patagonia
Chilean Patagonia stretches over a thousand miles, from the temperate rain forests near Puerto Montt in the north to the glaciers of the Magallanes region in the south. Interestingly, it was the southernmost regions that drew European colonizers first. Ships had to navigate around Cape Horn before the Panama Canal was built, which led to a vibrant wool trade centered around the region’s estancias.
The Río Futaleufú is celebrated globally as one of the premier whitewater-rafting rivers. Its name translates to “big water,” but this scarcely captures its might and allure.
However, while the whitewater is exhilarating, it was the rugged beauty and remoteness of northern Patagonia that captured my interest. The towns here are small, often with only a few thousand residents, and vast stretches of uninhabited forest land remain. As the Andes mountains converge with the Pacific, this wilderness is filled with fjords, temperate rain forests, and lakes from glaciers.
Where to Stay
Mapu: Nestled in the woods overlooking Lake Lonconao, this property features four tree-house-like bungalows, each equipped with a fireplace and a private terrace. Guests can indulge in photography workshops, horseback riding, or savor Chilean wine in a wood-fired hot tub.
Pata Lodge: Located along the banks of the Río Futaleufú, this resort offers six cabins clustered around Pata Bistro, a restaurant sourcing fresh ingredients from nearby organic farms.
Adventure Activities
Bio Bio Expeditions: Founded in 1993, this company specializes in Futaleufú tours, ranging from kayak lessons to mountain biking. A comfortable tented camp serves as a hub for whitewater adventures, often followed by soothing evening massages.
In closing, the Río Futaleufú and northern Patagonia offer remarkable opportunities for adventure and relaxation amid breathtaking natural surroundings. The area’s captivating blend of majestic rivers, stunning landscapes, and artisanal lodges promotes not only thrilling escapades but also a deeper connection with nature and a more sustainable way of living, making it a favored destination for those seeking both excitement and tranquility.
A version of this story first appeared in the December 2022/January 2023 issue of iBestTravel under the headline “Big Water.”
