We Were One of the First Inside Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto: A New Exhibition at the V&A
September 13, 2023
Coco Chanel is not a name that needs any preamble. The iconic designer is as woven into the fabric of the fashion world as Scorsese is in film and Picasso is in art. Fifty years after her death in her home at the Ritz Paris, where she lived for more than 30 years, she remains as sartorially relevant as ever.
Chanel lived an elusive life, existing as an intangible figure that defined the direction of fashion. Her close friends ranged from Churchill to Vogue editor Diana Vreeland, and she has been the subject of endless documentaries and articles. Her eponymous brand has graced some of the world’s most stylish celebrities for decades—think Jackie Kennedy and Audrey Hepburn. Today, Margot Robbie, Lily-Rose Depp, Kristen Stewart, and Margaret Qualley continue to embrace her timeless designs.
Despite her enduring fame, Chanel’s history remains hazy. One small section of the exhibition addresses her wartime activities—unseen documents place her as working alongside the Nazis in World War II. This year, biographer Justine Picardie discovered a membership card belonging to Chanel hidden in the French national archives, suggesting she may have also worked with the French resistance towards the war’s end, further complicating her legacy. The exhibition does not shy away from these complex issues, offering viewers a chance to examine Chanel’s character and history in full.
Exploring the Life of Chanel
Gabrielle Chanel. Fashion Manifesto is the first exhibition in the UK dedicated to the life and work of Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel. The show outlines Chanel’s evolution from Parisian millinery to world-revered fashion brand, guiding visitors through 60 years of history and more than 200 looks. Spread across 10 sections, the exhibition includes:
- “Towards a New Elegance” looks at the beginning of her career from 1910 onwards.
- “The Emergence of a Style” focuses on the development of her signature colors and cuts.
- “The Invisible Accessory” showcases the creation of Chanel perfume and beauty lines.
- “Luxury and Line” covers evening wear and fine jewelry.
- “Closing the House” discusses the impact of World War II on her work.
- “The Suit” examines how Chanel defined post-war modern femininity.
- “Chanel Codes” highlights the iconic 2.55 handbag and two-tone slingback shoes.
- “Into the Evening” focuses on adapted suits for cocktail parties and entertaining.
- “Costume Jewellery” critiques Coco’s rejection of fine jewels and societal standards.
- “A Timeless Allure” celebrates the gowns and dresses that have adorned celebrities and looks at her final collection of 1971.
Exhibition Insights
Set inside the V&A’s largest gallery space, the exhibition has been in development for over three years. Originally conceived by the Palais Galliera Fashion Museum of Paris, this showing re-imagines the collection with a looser chronology and sections focused around some of Chanel’s most memorable products.
One of the most impressive sections is dedicated to the Chanel suit, focusing on how Chanel returned to fashion after a 15-year hiatus during the war and its aftermath. Gabrielle unveiled a collection designed around her evolving preferences on February 5, 1954, embracing modern post-war femininity.
The room displays over 50 suit ensembles in a stunning color sequence, creating a beautiful array of looks. Gabrielle selected supple fabrics, allowing greater freedom of movement while rejecting the conventional use of padding and stiff materials. The collection initially received mixed reactions, but once Vogue described the Chanel suit as “the world’s prettiest uniform” in 1964, it became a timeless staple worn by modern celebrities.
Evening Wear Evolution
The exhibition also highlights the evolution of daytime suits into evening looks. The “Into the Evening” section examines cocktail suits that retained the structure of the 1950s suits while incorporating lavish fabrics that enhanced evening attire without compromising mobility. Elements such as beads, sequins, and silk elevated the presentation, proving Chanel’s innovative vision.
One standout example is the delightful “dinner pyjamas”—a term coined by Vogue. Gabrielle was known for her comfortable satin or chiffon trousers, leading to a collection of 1960s evening wear that combined stylish brocades and sleek lamé fabrics with her signature cardigan-cut jacket.
“Gabrielle Chanel devoted her long life to creating a new kind of elegance based on freedom of movement and subtle style,” says Miren Arzalluz, director of the Palais Galliera. Chanel’s distinctive styles and silhouettes have shaped female fashion throughout the 1900s, and the exhibition deftly charts her progression while connecting her legacy to larger cultural and societal events.
