Gurdeep Loyal on his favourite places to dine in the city and how he continues to take inspiration from his dual, British-Indian identity
28 July 2023
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Gurdeep Loyal is an absolute delight. And he also knows his food. He is a celebrated figure in the culinary scene and, while today he is based in Shoreditch, he grew up in Leicester. Gurdeep is second-generation British; his mother is from Punjab, India, and his father from Nairobi, Kenya. He spent his childhood visiting India every year (he still goes back as often as he can), and he describes himself as “deeply rooted to India and Leicester, equally. I really try to explore that duality of being English and Indian in all my work.” His work is a celebration of just that: his own British Indian identity, with delectable recipes from his own home, as well as the culinary identities that have migrated to the UK from all over South Asia.
Gurdeep’s parents married young and had an arranged marriage, their family home centring entirely around the kitchen. He describes his family as one in which “everyone’s lives completely revolve around food to this day. No one asks each other how they are, only, “what are you having for dinner? The kitchen at home was always full of all my aunties who would join my Mum there. It was a very matriarchal home, but the men also played a big part when it came to cooking and eating together as a family. Our lives revolved totally around food; mine still does.”
Gurdeep explains how Leicester is a huge hub of diasporas from across the South Asian continent, as well as the Caribbean and Europe. “I like to explore the intersection between food and identity,” he says. “That’s very important to me, and I’m fascinated by how cuisine transforms as people travel and migrate around the world.”
Below, he shares his four favourite places to eat in the city he grew up in, though he admits “the list could go on and on. I grew up eating my way across India but in Leicester.”
Bobby’s Restaurant
“Bobby’s is an absolute Leicester institution. It’s on what is known as The Golden Mile, (Belgrave Road), which is the Indian South Asian diasporic hub of Leicester. It’s a Gujarati-Indian chaat diner and has just had a refurb, so it’s now bright pink and orange. They do amazing Indian street food, incredible Dosas and an amazing Indian afternoon tea.”
Who comes here?
“Families from across the South Asian diaspora of all ages, enjoying delicious food with many generations gathered together.”
Best table in the restaurant?
“My favourite place to sit is right in the middle behind the chaat station in a pink and orange booth. It’s quite intimate, but you’ve also got a great view of everyone. It’s a place to see and be seen.”
Best time to come?
“Saturday afternoons when it’s at its busiest and buzzing. It’s in full celebration mode then, with people enjoying birthdays, end of exams, anniversaries, or just hanging out.”
Dish to order?
“They do amazing crushed samosas smothered in chutneys and yoghurts and lots of savoury vegetables. I absolutely love their chilli paneer dosa, but you should definitely try the Indian afternoon tea: it’s iconic and so, so unique.”
Mumbai Inn Gurkha Restaurant
“This beautifully represents Nepalese Gurkha food from the Himalayan region. It’s very low-key – it’s not fancy at all – but the food is really different and so tasty. There are hundreds of curry houses in Leicester, but there’s something really special about this one.”
Who comes here?
“It’s a real mix of people: anyone who has a taste for being adventurous with flavour tends to go, and it used to be a curry house called The Tiffin, so you get old fans of the Tiffin still going. Anyone who wants South Asian food from a lesser-known region should check this out. It’s a real hodge-podge of different people.”
Best table in the restaurant?
“At the side, they have this beautiful windowed conservatory that’s got a bit more of a magical feel about it.”
Best time to come?
“It’s a weekday evening kind of place, I think.”
Dish to order?
“They have a section on the menu of speciality Gurkha Nepalese dishes, so don’t miss that. And they do incredible Nepalese Momos and an amazing Himalayan chicken curry infused with fenugreek, chilli, cinnamon and clove. They also do a gorgeous saffron-infused Biriyani.”
Northern Cobbler Coffee Roasters
“There are three of these in Leicester, but the one I go to most is in the Clarendon Park area. Northern Cobbler Coffee Roasters is a small batch coffee roaster (and, randomly, they’re also a shoemaker), but it’s a café that does the best brunches in Leicester. It’s a hub of lifestyle goods, so you can get everything from candles to pastries.”
Who comes here?
“Leicester’s Bohemian set and the Artie crowd.”
Best table in the restaurant?
“I’d take a space on one of the long, communal tables right in the middle.”
Best time to come?
“Saturday morning is the time to go because it’s the place you want to start a lazy weekend with the papers and a fantastic brunch.”
Dish to order?
“They do the very best coffee in the city, and I suggest a savoury breakfast and then a second sweet breakfast. They do the most incredible baked egg pretzel, which is a hot, buttery pretzel and baked into the middle of it is an egg, spinach and mozzarella. And you mustn’t miss the warm banana bread with Cornish clotted cream and honey.”
Cocoa Amore
“This is an artisan chocolate boutique and café situated just off St. Martin Square, which is the gourmet part of Leicester. The chocolate is exquisite, and it supports sustainable cocoa growers. There is no gourmet chocolatier in Leicester quite like this.”
Who comes here?
“Discerning chocolate lovers and those with a sweet tooth.”
Best table in the restaurant?
“They have lovely seats under parasols on the pavement right outside, which are great because it’s a really nice part of Leicester to look out onto. You get to watch the world go by, and it’s great for people-watching.”
Best time to come?
“It’s perfect around 3pm when you need a sweet pick-me-up.”
Dish to order?
“They do an intensely rich sipping chocolate shot. I would have that with a handful of unrefined chocolate buttons to nibble on. And their Panela chocolate is incredible.”
