Experience the Jazz Scene in Harlem, New York City

New Orleans might be the home of jazz, but New York City is where many of the genre’s greats became stars – and Harlem was at the heart of it.

The neighborhood experienced a rebirth during the Harlem Renaissance of the 1920s, led by a virtuosic community of black artists, musicians, writers, and intellectuals who sought to explore and elevate black culture and heritage in the US. Harlem’s jazz joints were where much of the magic happened, fueled by the talents of soon-to-be icons like Louis Armstrong, Count Basie, Billie Holiday, Thelonious Monk, and Charlie Parker. Even one of Harlem’s subway lines was immortalized in song – composer Billy Strayhorn was inspired to pen ‘Take the A Train’ (the jazz standard made famous by Duke Ellington) after Ellington included the phrase when giving him directions to his home in Harlem.

Moreover, Harlem is known as the birthplace of bebop – the provocative, improvisational musical style characterized by intricate harmonies and rhythms. Thanks to its complex, often syncopated beats, bebop offered a more ‘intellectual’ alternative to traditional swing jazz – one that was intended to be appreciated through intense listening rather than dancing. These days, you’ll find all styles of jazz in Harlem – here’s where to experience it at its best.

Bone up on History at the National Jazz Museum

Before you hit any of the clubs, stop in here first to brush up on the history of jazz in Harlem. The National Jazz Museum (with a suggested donation of $10 for entry) is dedicated to the preservation, promotion, and presentation of jazz through exhibitions, live performances, and education. The real gem here is the Savory Collection – more than 100 hours of live recordings of jazz legends, created from radio broadcasts aired in New York City between 1935 and 1941. You can also try your hand at improvising alongside one of jazz’s current greats, bassist Christian McBride, via an interactive exhibit.

Dinner and Music at Minton’s Playhouse

Saxophonist Henry Minton founded his namesake playhouse in 1938 as a gathering place for local jazz musicians. Located in what was once the Cecil Hotel, Minton’s Playhouse was where bebop got its start, becoming the freestyling playground of Thelonious Monk, Dizzy Gillespie, Charlie Parker, and others. The jazz on show nowadays remains top-notch, and you can dine while you listen (non-diners pay $15, plus a two-drink minimum).

Speakeasy Style at Bill’s Place

Bill’s Place dates back to the Prohibition era when the 133rd Street block was known as Swing Street, thanks to the string of speakeasies and jazz clubs that occupied the stretch. (A plaque by the door notes that Billie Holiday was ‘discovered’ here in 1933.) Tucked away in an old row house, Bill’s Place offers live jazz on Fridays and Saturdays at 8 PM and 10 PM (doors open at 7:30 PM and reservations are available) with entry costing $30 cash at the door. Come here purely for the music and ambiance: no alcohol is served on the premises.

Dive into Pretension-Free Paris Blues

It might feel like a bit of a dive bar, but that’s the point – no pretenses, just great jazz. This compact no-frills venue presents free jazz shows seven nights a week (be sure to bring cash to tip the band). You’ll likely see the dapper 81-year-old owner Samuel Hargress, Jr., who opened Paris Blues in 1968 and has managed it ever since, enjoying the performances alongside his guests.

Marjorie Eliot’s Parlor

You can’t get a more authentic manifestation of the spirit of jazz than an informal concert hosted in someone’s living room. Every Sunday, jazz pianist Marjorie Eliot opens her apartment to a revolving roster of stellar musicians and music lovers who cram into the tight space for a free afternoon concert. Officially, the music begins at 3:30 PM, but it’s advisable to arrive at least an hour beforehand, as a line forms early. The apartment building at 555 Edgecombe Avenue is a national historic landmark, thanks to several of its famous past residents including Count Basie, Duke Ellington, Coleman Hawkins, and Lena Horne.

Go Backstage at The Apollo

One of New York City’s most famous music halls, The Apollo – known for its Amateur Night – has been the stage for some of jazz’s most iconic performers, including Ella Fitzgerald, Billie Holiday, Sarah Vaughan, and Duke Ellington. Nowadays, The Apollo’s programming spans music, comedy, and dance, but it’s worth taking its Historic Tour, led by Billy ‘Mr. Apollo’ Mitchell, for a behind-the-scenes peek. Note that tours are available to groups of 20 or more, but individuals and smaller groups can join existing tours.

Hitch a Ride on the Jazzmobile

Each summer, Jazzmobile presents free concerts in Harlem and other parts of the city, aiming to preserve the legacy of jazz and introduce the genre to the wider community and younger generations. Check its calendar or Facebook page for concert times and locations.

Soul Food Experience

While you’re in the neighborhood, savor some of the best soul food in New York City at Sylvia’s (try the peach cobbler), Amy Ruth’s (famous dishes named after notable African Americans), and for something a bit fancier, Marcus Samuelsson’s Red Rooster.