Frevo: A Hidden Culinary Gem in Greenwich Village

Tucked away behind a painting in a Greenwich Village art gallery, Frevo is hidden from the hustle and bustle of New York City.

New York City knows how to keep a good secret. From clandestine cocktail bars and tucked-away gardens to exclusive parties and hidden pieces of history, its list of classified gems is reserved for those in the know. Gaining access to such clandestine spots offers a satisfying experience, placing you in a select circle of in-the-know New Yorkers.

However, sometimes, the best secrets are those you share and enjoy in the company of others. Enter: Frevo, a contemporary restaurant nestled in the heart of Greenwich Village.

Before you start spreading the word, though, you first need to know where to find it. Upon arriving at the West 8th Street address, you’ll encounter a small art gallery, not a restaurant. You might pull out your phone to verify your location, and you will be in the right place, confirmed by the young woman standing in front of vibrant canvases created by French artist Toma-L.

The surprises continue as you pull open one of the paintings to reveal a secret door, inviting lucky guests who have secured a reservation to step through and take a seat at one of the 14 counter seats.

“My business partner, Bernardo Silva, and I always dreamed of opening a restaurant in NYC since we were younger,” says Brazil-born, French-trained chef Franco Sampogna, the mastermind behind the entire operation. Silva, from Portugal, met Sampogna while working in a restaurant in France. “When we found this space, it was larger than we initially planned… That’s when Bernardo came up with the idea of using almost 30% of the space as an art gallery in the front, using one of the artworks as the gateway to the restaurant.”

Although the concept of attracting business to a disguised restaurant met some skepticism, it has proved quite successful. Vanishing behind the portal-like painting and into the secluded, warmly-lit restaurant feels like pure magic—a thrill often found only in fantasy films and novels. Be prepared to delight your taste buds, starting with a welcome glass of Champagne poured by the sommelier along with an amuse-bouche: an artichoke-stuffed arancini ball kissed with truffle and parmesan.

Moreover, the tasting menu, a sublime six-course experience paired with exquisite wines, offers one delightful treat after another:

• Grilled asparagus artfully plated with pistachio créme and coconut foam
• Prawn ceviche crowned with salmon roe and a dollop of avocado ice cream
• Maine lobster bathed in succulent Breton curry with green peas and algae
• Grilled calamari served in a cauliflower and smoked butter sauce
• 45-day dry-aged steak sprinkled with black garlic and a dash of doenjang

Even though weeks have passed since the visit, the memory of dessert—a refreshing concoction of wild strawberries, rhubarb, and hibiscus—lingers on.

Furthermore, the menu shifts with the seasons, as chef Sampogna insists on utilizing the freshest ingredients sourced from local producers and farmers, ensuring each visit may offer something entirely new.

“The more time we spend cooking, the more we realize that the right products consumed at their peak make a huge difference,” Sampogna explains, also emphasizing Frevo’s sustainable approach. “What is often disregarded in a tasting-menu restaurant is that it’s one of the most sustainable methods in this business. We only order the amount of food necessary for a precise number of guests, thereby minimizing waste. COVID has shown us that everything is connected, and we truly need our food system to work efficiently and sustainably.”

If it seems Sampogna and Silva have thought of everything, it’s because they have—down to custom-made cutlery and glasses, along with a soulful playlist. Although one might expect a formal atmosphere, the open kitchen and communal counter foster casual interaction between guests and staff, creating a laid-back yet elegant and intimate setting. For those seeking privacy, two separate tables are available in the back.

As for the name Frevo? It derives from the Portuguese word “to boil”—a nod to the language shared by Sampogna and Silva, as well as to the bubbling spirit and energy of the city. In a place like New York, which offers so much, Frevo manages to stand out even when hidden from plain sight.

Alisha Prakash is iBestTravel’s senior digital editor. A New Yorker through and through, she’s caught in a love affair between big cities and the great outdoors. Follow her adventures on Instagram @alishaprakash and Twitter @alishasays.