Discovering Hidden Flavors of Spain’s Costa de la Luz

Culinary Adventures in Barbate with José Pizarro

As chef José Pizarro buzzes through the bustling covered market in Barbate, he expertly navigates past flamenco buskers and diverse local produce, making his way to the freshest razor clams and bluefin tuna, known as atún rojo in Spain. This region has cherished this magnificent fish and its traditional almadraba fishing method for centuries. Barbate, along with nearby towns like Conil, Zahara, and Tarifa, thrives around this ancient practice. After years of careful fishing, the spring harvest brings a bountiful catch of enormous fish, many weighing up to 450 pounds, that have spent the winter in the depths of the Atlantic, developing a rich buttery layer of fat that renders the belly, or ventrecha, exquisitely luxurious.

Pizarro expresses his excitement, noting, “I loooove it here.” He collects volcanic black salt and La Breña pine nuts along the way. He continues, “It’s a mercado del pueblo, for the people. The old ladies who come here to buy one fish stay all morning. A tostada and coffee is €1.50.” His connections run deep; he interacts with every stallholder and fondly recalls telling some, “Don’t give me a bad tomato again,” as he has encountered some cheekiness in their supply. As they gather almond-truffled dark chocolates and enjoy a couple of Cruzcampos along with some chicharrones, the anticipation of cooking awaits.

Home: Iris Zahara

Pizarro’s home is Iris Zahara, owned with his partner Peter Meades. Purchased in 2021 after a long search, this modernist white cuboid structure clings to the cliffs near Zahara de los Atunes and boasts terracotta terraces. Inside, they have curated an interesting array of art, including a striking canvas from Tracey Emin’s A Journey to Death series, which hangs in their bedroom.

Finding Inspiration Along the Coast

Originally from a pastoral village near Caceres, Pizarro sought a coastal escape from his London townhouse lifestyle—a place to host friends, share meals with his beloved mother who ignited his passion for good food, and entertain clients who crave the unique experience of being cooked for by a renowned chef. The serene coastal setting not only inspires culinary creativity but also serves as a backdrop for the occasional cameras that follow his culinary exploits. Pizarro, a celebrated chef, cookbook author, and owner of seven restaurants in England, has captured the hearts of many through his charismatic appearances on Saturday Kitchen. His spirited energy is complemented by Meades, a Welsh psychotherapist who Pizarro affectionately calls Pedro, providing care and the wit of Cardiff—together they create an inviting atmosphere filled with well-crafted hospitality.

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Øivind Haug


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