Discover the hidden gems of this remote corner of Wales
The word has long since got out about the joys of Pembrokeshire. It is easy to see why this region attracts visitors from all over. There is a vibrant gastro-scene that, in Abergavenny alone, offers more epicurean thrills than the entirety of the Cotswolds and Cornwall combined. Additionally, you can explore Britain’s only coastal national park, St. David’s—the smallest city in the entire United Kingdom—and the enchanting seaside town of Tenby, adored even by the legendary misanthrope Roald Dahl.
However, where to go in order to spend a weekend free from the concomitant queues, crowds, and overwhelming noise? Below are five of our favorite spots in the county locally referred to as Sir Benfro. Utilize this guide to experience a part of Wales that is easier to spell in Welsh than in English.
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Simon Whaley / Alamy Stock Photo -
joan gravell / Alamy Stock Photo Mynydd Preseli
The further north you venture in Pembrokeshire, and the further away from the coast, the more wild and untamed the surroundings become. The Mynydd Preseli mountains offer a brooding landscape with cairns, standing stones, and glacial vales. At Carn Menyn, you will find the quarry from which the boulders that form Stonehenge were carved sometime between 2000 and 1500 BC.
Visit the upscale Preseli Venture, where adventure meets rustic charm, focusing on cycling, hiking, surfing, and kayaking lessons taught by professional instructors along the coastline. Although the double rooms share bathrooms, they provide a cozy atmosphere, and the entire facility operates with a commendably small eco footprint courtesy of solar panels and innovative construction using recycled railway sleepers from Latvia. Do not miss out on trying a bowl of the lodge’s superb ‘cawl’—traditional Welsh vegetable soup.
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Derek Phillips / Alamy Stock Photo Narberth
This picturesque market town, Narberth, initially appears unassuming, yet it serves as the frontier of the Landsker Borderlands, marking the dividing point between the Welsh-speaking north and the Anglicised south. Hidden among the artist studios, visitors can discover locally made jewellery and handbags at the Golden Sheaf Gallery or curated antiques at The Malthouse.
The highlight is undoubtedly The Fernery restaurant, located within a Georgian country house known as Grove Of Narberth. Chef Douglas Ballish is building a reputation for outstanding dishes, including squab with celeriac, cherry, and nasturtium, alongside the less common (in the UK) Japanese egg-custard dessert called chawanmushi. They are featured on the eight-course menu priced at £130.
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Tony Peacock / Alamy Stock Photo Milford Haven and Surrounding Areas
Milford Haven boasts a unique layout reminiscent of American towns, having originated from whalers from Nantucket during the 18th century. While the town center may seem unremarkable, walking across the Cleddau Bridge at dusk reveals breathtaking views over the headlands and boating masts, with oil refineries framed beautifully against a sunset.
Make a stop at the 18th-century former whale oil warehouse, now Milford Haven Museum, where you can explore exhibits that span from Bronze Age artifacts to insights into the fishing and sailing industries. Conclude your visit at the Marina, where the Martha’s Vineyard bar and café serves a range of local Welsh beers and spirits, including Tir and Mor Pembrokeshire dry gin.
For accommodation, consider the nearby villages of Dale, Marloes, and Martin’s Haven, each located around ten miles from the town center. These quaint villages are close to shingle beaches and dramatic cliffs. Slate Mill Lodge, a former corn mill dating back to the 14th century, now hosts two cozy self-catering cottages with original stone walls on display in the living areas.
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Eric Murphy / Alamy Stock Photo Newport
This Newport is situated far from the Gwent coastline, perched on the edge of a bay along the less-traveled mid-Pembrokeshire coastline. The town center affords a two-hour hike to the summit of Carn Ingli (Hill of Angels), historically considered one of the holiest mountains in the region.
The town’s fringes offer relatively easier walking opportunities, especially along the sandy stretch of Traethmnawr beach, which is accessed via the town bridge. Only a ten-minute drive from the town, the quintessential Welsh village pub, Dyffryn Arms (commonly known as Bessie’s), serves traditional pints of bitter in a cozy front living room.
For a superior sleeping experience upon your return to Newport, Llys Meddyg awaits. This Georgian-era coaching house specializes in delightful meals, including hand-reared salmon cured in the hotel’s smokehouse. Each room offers a peaceful atmosphere adorned with sheepskin rugs and premium Egyptian cotton sheets from the local woolen mill Melin Tregwyn.
