The Ultimate Road Trip Along Iceland’s Arctic Coast Way
There are sites in Reykjavík and along the Golden Circle where the crush of visitors has become unbearable. However, as María Reynisdóttir, tourism specialist for Iceland’s Ministry of Industries and Innovation, explains, these are isolated infrastructure challenges. The country is vast, and there are areas where travelers can drive for miles without encountering another soul.
On June 8, 2019, Iceland unveiled a rebranded Arctic Coast Way, aimed at drawing attention to the 21 villages, 17 communities, and four islands located along the 560 miles of northern coastline stretching from Hvammstangi to Bakkafjörður. My mother and I drove a good chunk of this route 10 months before it became a thing. Here’s how we did it.
The Trip: Five Days, 470 Miles
What to Drive
Unless you’re off-roading, a compact vehicle will serve you just fine along this route. Being able to drive a manual transmission car saves money, as automatics tend to cost more. My mother and I rented a car at Keflavík Airport (KEF) in Reykjavík and drove it all the way to Akureyri Airport in the north. For the return, we booked a one-way flight via Air Iceland Connect back to Reykjavík Airport and preordered a Flybus voucher for transfers between the domestic and international airports.
When to Go
This drive is best enjoyed between April and September; however, budget-minded travelers may appreciate the slightly discounted hotel rates in the shoulder months of March and October. Just bear in mind that some businesses operate seasonally from mid-May through August. Note: the only thing predictable about Iceland’s weather is its unpredictability. Therefore, regularly check the Icelandic Road and Coastal Administration and Safetravel websites for up-to-date driving conditions.
Day 1
My mother and I flew from Stockholm to Reykjavík and rented a small Ford Focus from the Avis at KEF. Having visited the capital numerous times before, we hit the road straight away. It was a 264-mile drive to our first overnight destination, Siglufjörður, where we stayed in a cozy cottage.
Fortunately, there was plenty to distract us during the nearly six-hour ride. Around the halfway mark, we veered three-and-a-half miles off Route 1, also known as the Ring Road, and down a gravel path toward Kolugljúfur, a picturesque gorge where the Víðidalsá river feeds into a tumbling waterfall. Kolufossar isn’t the most famous cascade in Iceland, but it still attracts visitors; we encountered a dozen people taking photographs and two drone operators, the latter precariously perched on the canyon’s ragged edges.
Day 2
We used the charming fishing town of Siglufjörður, with a population of about 1,206, as a base to explore neighboring villages along the rugged northwestern coast of the Troll Peninsula. True to its name, trolls were the first thing we noticed in Olafsfjörður, the town next door. Troll murals were everywhere—on the sides of houses, a fish-processing plant, and an indoor pool. The colorful artwork was created by an American artist who had completed a residency in the town.
After lunch, we drove 30 minutes south to Björböðin, a unique spa and restaurant in Árskógssandur. Opened in June 2017, it is Iceland’s first beer spa, where deep soaking tubs filled with 100°C young beer, live beer yeast, water, and hops await. After indulging in an outdoor sauna, we slipped into the frothy mixture. After pampering ourselves for 25 minutes, we headed to a relaxation room where we laid in silent meditation, a strange yet calming experience.
Day 3
After checking out of our accommodation, we grabbed a quick and delicious lunch at Fish & Chips Siglufjörður, one of the few budget-friendly eateries we could find in North Iceland.
We then stopped for home-baked pastries at the delightful Gisli Eirikur Helgi café in Dalvik, 40 minutes south; made a failed attempt to visit Safnasafnið, an Icelandic folk and outsider art museum in Akureyri; and took a scenic drive through the 742-acre Vaglaskógur national forest in Fnjóskadalur, showcasing a spectacular color display in late September.
However, the highlight of the day was Goðafoss, one of the most impressive waterfalls in Iceland. Nicknamed the Waterfall of the Gods, it’s where the rushing Skjálfandafljót river drops nearly 40ft across a 98ft expanse.
Day 4
We spent the morning exploring downtown Húsavík, shopping for Scandinavian homeware, trying local pastries, visiting the Húsavík Whale Museum, and photographing the stunning, century-old Húsavík church.
Later that day, we participated in a thrilling three-hour whale-watching tour. Our guide, a Dutch marine biologist, described the ocean conditions as challenging. Dressed in winter coats and thermal suits, we were treated to the sight of five humpback whales coming as close as 20ft from our boat. Although the water was rough, the crew provided excellent care to our group of determined sightseers.
To conclude the day perfectly, we enjoyed no-fuss takeaway from Fish & Chips, a local favorite, followed by a long soak at the Geosea Geothermal Sea Baths, which offer stunning views of the Skjálfandaflói bay.
Day 5
On our final day in North Iceland, we headed to volcanic Lake Mývatn. After moving to a cozy hotel located 40 minutes south of Húsavík, we proceeded to the Namafjall Geothermal Area. We could smell the sulphur before we even parked. This vibrant geothermal area featured hissing fumaroles and bubbling mud pots that captivated us.
Next, we took Highway 862 out to Dettifoss, the most powerful waterfall in Europe. As we approached, a daredevil tightrope walker began crossing high above the tumultuous waters. Three rainbows arched across the spray, creating a breathtaking scene. After a short trek along the rocky Jökulsárgljúfur canyon, we found Selfoss, a wilder but narrower sibling waterfall to Dettifoss.
In the afternoon, we rode Icelandic horses with a local guide, learning the traditional ‘tölt’ gait. Riding across grassy meadows with mountain views was magical. Our final meal in Iceland was at the popular Vogafjós Cow Cafe, adjacent to a dairy farm. My mother enjoyed a burger, but I opted for raw lamb and housemade mozzarella. Although the bill was steep, the memories we made were priceless.
