Escape to Ilha da Paquetá: A Hidden Gem Near Rio
Nearly everyone who visits Rio de Janeiro has a favorite place to escape from the hectic pace of city life. Whether it’s Pão de Açúcar, Floresta da Tijuca, or Morro Dois Irmãos, the city is surrounded by tranquil retreats and stunning views. However, there is one day trip getaway that seems to be more of a local secret than tourist staple, the mellow island of Paquetá.
Ilha da Paquetá is just over an hour’s ferry ride away from Praça XV in the city center; but once you step off the ferry, you might think you’ve stepped back in time. There are no cars, so visitors and locals alike traverse the island by bicycle or electric golf cart. Many of the buildings have retained their colonial facades, painted faded pastel pinks, blues, yellows, and greens.
During its history, Paquetá has seen its fortunes rise and fall. Originally settled by indigenous Brazilians, it was claimed by the French in 1556. After the French abandoned their colonial interests in Brazil, rich Portuguese aristocrats and slave owners populated the island, with Emperor Dom João VI reportedly holidaying there. Paquetá is now home to around 3,000 to 4,000 permanent residents, with many cariocas visiting over the weekends for an almost-instant change of pace from the sprawling metropolis of Rio de Janeiro.
Exploring the Island
The island is small, around 1.2 sq km (0.46 sq miles) in size, but it offers plenty for the curious day-tripper or weekend visitor beyond its tranquil atmosphere and comparatively safe streets. The first thing to do is to get a bicycle. While tourist golf-cart taxis and other means of transport are available, the island is the perfect size for biking.
The main street directly in front of the ferry dock has excellent bike rental shops, like Paquetá Bike, which offer reasonable rentals by the hour or for the entire day. Many small hotels and rentals will also provide a bike as part of your stay.
Finding the Culture of Paquetá
The island may be small, but it boasts a lively cultural scene, featuring a locally printed magazine, a great website, a cultural center, and regular food festivals and musical events. During Carnival, Paquetá is a lively destination for a special bloco (Carnival street party), and locals also throw their own parties, including one bloco just for dogs.
Casa de Artes Paquetá is well worth a visit; the faded orange period house has been beautifully restored, regularly hosting concert recitals, live Brazilian music, and even a cineclube (film club). Their Arte & Gula Café is another quality locale where visitors can sample delicious homemade food while taking in views of Guanabara bay.
Paquetá also comes to life during Festa de São Roque, held on the weekend following August 16 every year, featuring live music, fireworks, and a religious procession through the streets. Another good time to visit is at the end of June when the island’s fishers pay tribute to Saint Peter with a maritime procession and plenty of festivities.
Get Outside and Enjoy the Views
Darke de Mattos, Paquetá’s municipal park located on the southern tip of the island, serves as a perfect starting point for any visit. Unlike some public parks in Rio de Janeiro, Darke de Mattos is well-maintained and safe, with stunning views of Guanabara Bay. There are picnic spots, short trails leading to elevated viewpoints, tunnels, caves, and even a beach, all located just a quick bike ride away from the ferry terminal.
While Rio de Janeiro is famous for its beaches, the water around Paquetá can be polluted. It is not advised to swim after heavy rain or near sewage pipes; however, both Praia da Imbuca and Praia da Moreninha are deemed suitable for bathers under normal conditions by the local environment agency. Visitors can check the cleanliness of the water on the website Praia Limpa for updated information. Regardless, the beaches themselves are picturesque and inviting.
Dining in Paquetá
Not widely known as a culinary hotspot, Paquetá features a surprising number of excellent restaurants and cafes. Confeitaria Bodega de Paqueta, located on Pinheiro Freire, offers delicious cakes and sweets in a cozy atmosphere.
Nearby, Zeca’s Restaurante on Praça Bom Jesus often garners praise as the best restaurant on the island, competing in the city’s culinary Comida Di Buteco competition, serving traditional Brazilian barbecue and seafood, along with live music from Friday to Sunday.
Perhaps the island’s best-kept secret is Casa da Noca, which operates as a bed and breakfast, café, and late-night live music venue open from Friday to Sunday. The drinks, made with artisanal ingredients, and snacks like outstanding pizza árabe consistently impress visitors.
Where to Stay
For those looking to stay overnight, Casa da Noca is an excellent choice. Alternatively, the charming pousada (bed and breakfast) Hospedaria Santa Bárbara offers three boutique suites and an intimate atmosphere, while the more traditional Hotel Lido Paquetá caters to guests seeking a conventional option. Additionally, various short-term rentals are available across the island.
