Discovering the Myths and Legends of Ireland
In many ways, it’s a miracle we know anything about Ireland’s incredible and complex mythology. The tales were shared orally for hundreds of years and were only written down by medieval monks who often changed the stories, sometimes inserting a Christian ending to a tale.
The irony, however, is that without the monks, these pagan legends would have been lost entirely after centuries of Christianity, conquest, and colonization. We are fortunate the stories survive, even in their altered form. Irish mythology can be strange, vulgar, and somewhat confusing but also magical, inspiring, and entertaining. The places connected with these celebrated characters are still features of the island today. What you’ll read here is just a starting point for your travels into the landscapes of legendary Ireland.
In the Beginning…
The story of Ireland’s first mythical inhabitants was recorded in the Lebor Gabála Érenn (the Book of Invasions) in the 11th century, blending biblical origin stories, pagan mythology, and real history. In the book, the first two waves of settlers in Ireland are completely wiped out. When the third group, the Nemedians, nearly follows suit, the last 30 men split up and flee, some heading to Britain, some to Greece, and some to unnamed lands in the north. Those who go to Greece return after 230 years, become known as the Fir Bolg, and install themselves as High Kings.
The Nemedians who fled north spend their time acquiring supernatural abilities and return to Ireland with a new name – the Tuatha Dé Danann, meaning ‘people of the goddess Danu’. Who Danu was is lost to history, although she is presumed to have played a role in teaching these new gods and goddesses their magical powers. After sailing back to Ireland, they battle the Fir Bolg and win the right to rule the land.
The Tuatha include gods for the sea, craftsmanship, and healing, as well as goddesses of war, fertility, and the seasons. The eldest and wisest of them was the Dagda, regarded as a father figure by the Tuatha (often literally, as he fathered many of them) and associated with druids and wisdom. Admired for his strength, he’s also known for his magical staff (which could both kill and resurrect people) and a cauldron that was never empty. For 80 years, he ruled from Brú na Bóinne, now recognized as one of the most incredible prehistoric sites in Europe, before being poisoned in battle.
At the Dagda’s side through his early successful war efforts was the Morrígan, a three-aspect goddess of war and fate, probably best known for her role in the death of Cú Chulainn. She appears on every bloody battlefield, transforming into a crow and flying overhead, inspiring warriors to brave and deadly deeds. Seek her out, if you dare, at Oweynagat in County Roscommon. Dubbed ‘Ireland’s Gate to Hell’, it is said to be an entrance to the Otherworld. During Samhain (the Celtic festival marking the end of the harvest season), the Morrígan appears here, driving evil beasts out to ravage the land and bring in the winter. If you’re particularly brave, the excellent visitor centre runs an especially frightening tour on Halloween itself.
Heroes, Warrior Queens, and Giants
Linked to the Tuatha are Ireland’s most famous heroes, including the fearsome Cú Chulainn, celebrated for single-handedly defending Emain Macha, the traditional royal seat of Ulster, at the age of just 17. While the rest of the Ulster army is struck down by a curse, Cú Chulainn invokes his right to single combat and cuts down Queen Medb’s army, one warrior at a time, for months on end. Nowadays, visitors to the remnants of Emain Macha in Navan Fort can enjoy an immersive experience learning warcraft, pottery, and cooking, as well as the rich history associated with the site.
After many epic deeds, Cú Chulainn is eventually killed by a spear thrown by the son of one of the many men he killed. In his last moments, knowing his time is up, he ties himself to a stone, facing his enemies. They are too afraid to approach his corpse until a raven lands on his shoulder, confirming he is dead. Clochafarmore, a standing stone close to Dundalk, is traditionally seen as this place – there’s a ring of truth to the idea: the large stone stands in a field called the Field of Slaughter, and archaeological evidence proves this was once a battle site. The dying Cú Chulainn is also immortalized in Oliver Sheppard’s striking bronze statue at the entrance to Dublin’s GPO. Representations of the statue often appear in murals in Belfast and are revered by both communities: nationalists as a symbol of Irish culture and resilience, and unionists as a representation of an Ulster warrior.
Cú Chulainn’s most famous opponent was Queen Medb (also spelled Meadhbh, Méabh, and Maeve in English), a warrior queen from Connacht. Known for her string of important husbands and lovers, she was a key player in waging two separate wars with Ulster: once because the King of Ulster (and her former husband) raped her, and another to capture a bull that would ensure her wealth equaled that of her new husband’s. Fascinating and fearsome, she was not to be messed with and left her mark all around the province.
She ruled from the aforementioned Rathcroghan but is more associated with Sligo today. Dominating the skyline and overlooking Strandhill is Knocknarea, a limestone hill with a huge cairn on top which you can hike to. Medb is said to be buried upright here, spear in hand and facing Ulster, ready to fight again in the event of another attack by her old enemies. As well as visiting an Irish heroine’s grave, you’ll also get spectacular views across the peninsula from the cairn.
Another location where legend and landscape converge is the Giant’s Causeway. The distinctive pillars of this World Heritage Site are said to be all that remains of a pathway built by the giant Fionn mac Cumhaill (anglicized as Finn McCool) in order to fight the Scottish giant Benandonner. Fionn’s escapades are detailed in the stories known as the Fenian Cycle, which tells of his band of warriors, the Fianna, as they travel around the island. His success as a hero was attributed to the fact that he accidentally consumed the Salmon of Knowledge as a boy, which blessed him with all the knowledge of the world.
Fionn’s son, Oisín, is nearly as famous as his father, regarded as the greatest poet of Irish mythology. He is credited as the narrator of the tales from the Fenian Cycle. However, he is best known for his part in a tragic love story. In order to marry a beautiful fairy woman, he travels to Tír na nÓg, or the Celtic Otherworld. When he returns three years later, he discovers that in the human world, 300 years have passed and Ireland has changed beyond recognition. Tragically, before he can return to his fairy wife, he falls from his white fairy horse, instantly ages, and dies. Locals have long named Oisín’s resting place as Glenasmole, part of the Dublin Mountains Way and an enjoyable hike. A recent community project saw hundreds of people bring a stone to Glenasmole to build a cairn for Oisín – you’ll see it (and possibly some wild white horses, perhaps visiting from the Otherworld) as you climb up.
Fairies, But Not As You Know Them
The Tuatha Dé Danann ruled Ireland as High Kings for some time. According to the Book of Invasions, they were eventually defeated in battle by the Milesians, a group of human soldiers from Iberia. The two groups agreed to rule Ireland together: the Milesians would rule the land, while the Tuatha would govern the Otherworld from palaces hidden inside earthen mounds, or sidhe as they are called in Irish. The Tuatha thus retreated, their powers fading somewhat, and in time became known as the Sidhe (after their new homes), the ‘good folk,’ or simply ‘fairies.’
Traditionally, the Sidhe were described as a tall, handsome race with their own battles, interests, and love lives, akin to Tolkien’s elves rather than the small, winged fairies depicted in animated movies. Their good looks and articulate ways of speaking earned them the nickname ‘the gentry’ in the west of Ireland. In other regions, however, they were feared and blamed for stealing children and young people, taking them to the Otherworld. It remains unclear exactly how strong this ‘fairy faith’ was, but there is tantalizing evidence that in some parts of the country, particularly in rural areas, belief in them coexisted with Catholicism until the early 20th century (Ireland’s esteemed Nobel Laureates, WB Yeats and Samuel Beckett, believed in them). Moreover, accounts name the woods around Benbulben as one of their major residences.
If they are often forgotten today, at least the earthen mounds they inhabited (most likely ancient graves) are still visible across the island. In fact, there are more than 40,000 ‘fairy forts’, which we now recognize as the remnants of circular Iron Age dwellings. According to legend, bad luck or even death will befall anyone who destroys one – a compelling reason why so many have remained untouched through the centuries. The best example is probably Dun Aengus in Inishmore, a formidable structure overlooking the Atlantic Ocean from atop a 100-meter cliff.
Nowadays, fairy folklore in Ireland resembles the rest of the world: small, friendly creatures that can be found in beautiful natural spots. This may not match the traditional portrayal of them, but their newfound smaller stature comes with benefits. Several fairy trails designed for children are now dotted around the country, most notably at Malahide Castle and the beautiful Erica’s Fairy Forest in Cavan. It turns out there are still some magical secrets out there waiting to be discovered.
