Discovering Istanbul: A Journey Through Heritage and Modernity
On a damp morning in Istanbul, I head for Zeyrek Çinili Hamam, a recently unveiled museum in a 500-year-old public bathhouse that once echoed with the chatter of the Ottoman middle classes. Navigating the winding cobbled streets of UNESCO-listed Zeyrek, once a holy site during the Byzantine Empire, is an adventure in itself. The air carries the faint smell of raw meat from local butchers, and the streets are nearly deserted, except for the occasional vendor and octogenarians doing their grocery shopping. Trying to make sense of Google Maps on my phone, I nearly collide with men haphazardly transporting a sheep carcass. I realize that I have passed the hammam several times without noticing its domed façade. As often happens in Istanbul, the past is ever-present.
Connecting with Heritage
Istanbul holds a special place in my heart as my first-ever flight was to Turkey when I was six months old, and I’ve visited the city countless times. I have fuzzy memories of summer trips with relatives during the 1990s, from spitting watermelon seeds into the Bosphorus to the sweet taste of cherry dondurma ice cream. My father, who grew up in Adana, carries a rich tapestry of memories as well, living in a household filled with photographs and stories from generations past.
New Perspectives on Identity
Despite these ties to my heritage, I never felt a strong connection to my Turkish identity while growing up in central London. The endless mispronunciations of my name constantly reminded me of my roots, yet it wasn’t until recently that I realized the richness of having a dual heritage. Thus, I traveled to Istanbul to explore my roots independently and ponder the question: who would I be if my parents had chosen to settle here?
Istanbul’s Resilience and Evolution
Since my last visit in 2017, Istanbul has faced significant challenges, including the pandemic and political unrest. Yet the city is teeming with promise, as evidenced by the recent openings of Istanbul Airport and Galataport—an impressive blend of modern architecture and historical significance, now housing contemporary art museums and luxurious hotels amidst the backdrop of centuries-old Ottoman architecture.
Art and Community at Zeyrek Çinili Hamam
Zeyrek Çinili Hamam stands as a testament to Istanbul’s ability to reinterpret its past. After a lengthy restoration, it now hosts local and international artists while serving the community as a functional hammam. This blending of past and present reflects the city’s evolving identity amidst rapid change.
Culinary Heritage and New Connections
Lunch at the well-loved restaurant Karaköy Lokantası with Mina Dilber sparks conversations about our cultural heritage. As we savor traditional Turkish dishes, Mina recounts her own familial ties to the textile industry dating back to the Ottoman era. This shared appreciation for our ancestry fosters a new bond; irrelevant of the size of the city, connections are woven through shared experiences and backgrounds.
Exploring Cultural Dynamics
In the historic Fatih neighborhood, I explore Little Syria alongside Anya von Bremzen, author of a compelling book about food and identity. As we navigate the colorful shops showcasing Syrian delicacies, we learn about the growing cultural impact of the Syrian community in Istanbul. This multicultural tapestry contributes to the city’s dynamic identity, bridging gaps and fostering understanding among its disparate communities.
New Artistic Pursuits
Later, I tour Sanayi, an industrial neighborhood that has transformed into an artistic hub. Each studio space is a snapshot of Istanbul’s ongoing narrative, filled with creativity, inspiration, and the potential for new beginnings. The region embodies the essence of change within the city, where ancient traditions meet contemporary expression.
Conclusion: Embracing Roots and New Beginnings
Istanbul, with its rich history and cultural evolution, offers a profound understanding of identity and belonging. As I meander through its streets, I am reminded that our roots shape who we are, while the connections we forge allow us to grow and redefine our narratives.
