From street snacks grabbed on-the-go to hours-long breakfasts or nights spent in meyhane (taverns), Istanbul is a city that loves to eat. New restaurants are constantly opening and old favorites remain packed despite an ongoing economic crisis in Türkiye that has sent food prices soaring.
Though they share the national passion for traditional Turkish cuisine, Istanbulites also embrace a variety of international food trends, whether it’s burgers or the famed San Sebastian cheesecake. Over the years, one of the most exciting changes has been the increase in restaurants serving cuisines from new immigrant groups, including Indonesian and Yemeni food.
Breakfast
Breakfast in Istanbul can be as simple as a simit, the ubiquitous sesame seed-covered bread ring available at street carts and bakeries. On weekends, it’s all about a leisurely serpme kahvaltı—a lavish spread of small bites like olives, cheeses, jams, pastries, and eggs meant to be lingered over and shared. To enjoy breakfast with stunning Bosphorus views, consider the cafe-restaurants near the Rumeli Hisarı fortress.
Closer to the city center is a street in the Beşiktaş neighborhood dedicated to breakfast. While some newer spots lean more on style than substance, the original Çakmak Kahvaltı Salonu is still the best for menemen (soft-cooked eggs with tomatoes and peppers) or sucuklu yumurta (pan-fried eggs with spicy beef sausage). Don’t forget the side of bal kaymak, thick cream drizzled with honey.
Coffee and Tea
For traditional Turkish coffee (türk kahve), it’s hard to top Mandabatmaz, a classic spot in Beyoğlu where the coffee is served thick and rich. Established in 1967, this tiny one-room cafe is best enjoyed from the street seats to soak up the vibrant atmosphere.
Despite the surge of trendy cafes serving flat whites and iced lattes, Türkiye maintains a strong tea culture, allegedly having the highest per capita tea consumption in the world. For a beautiful view while sipping your tea, consider the Tarihi Çınaraltı Çay Bahçesi in Çengelkoy along the Bosphorus.
Lunch
When visiting art galleries in the Beyoğlu area, the colorful buffet counter at Hayvore is a great choice for a quick bite. Their Black Sea dishes, including karalahana çorbası (kale soup) and hamsili pilav (seasoned rice with anchovies), are must-tries.
If you’re aiming for a more substantial meal, head to the Fatih district, where immigrant communities bring unique flavors to the Istanbul dining scene. This area is the place to enjoy Syrian fatteh (a mix of chickpeas, pita chips, and tahini yogurt) or spicy green beans and laghman hand-pulled noodles at local favorites.
Food Markets
There’s no better way to understand the ingredients that comprise Turkish cuisine than by visiting an open-air food market. Markets like the Kadıköy Produce Market and those in Fatih offer a vibrant atmosphere where you can explore colorful stalls filled with local produce, homemade cheeses, and spices. Most neighborhoods have their own semt pazar (neighborhood market), setting up weekly to delight locals and visitors alike.
Dinner
No visit to Istanbul is complete without experiencing a meyhane night—a lively evening filled with a variety of meze, hot starters, and fish, usually accompanied by rakı, Türkiye’s popular anise-flavored spirit. Asmalı Cavit in Beyoğlu is a classic spot with a lively atmosphere, while Cibalikapı Balıkçısı along the Golden Horn is known for its fresh seafood and unique appetizers.
For a taste of contemporary Mediterranean fare, Salon Galata in Karaköy serves creative salads and hearty pastas in an elegant setting. Remember, weekend dinners in Istanbul can get bustling, so arriving early or making reservations is advisable.
Bar Scene
While Kadıköy is often regarded as the nightlife hub for the younger crowd, Beyoğlu retains its charm. Behind Galatasaray High School is Hayriye Caddesi, alive with revelers spilling from trendy spots like Noh Radio Bar, known for its electronic music, and Tavern, famous for its innovative cocktails.
