When I first met Jackson Boxer, I was expecting a rock and roll gastronomic character, a sort of looming, wild and booming figure. I imagined him to be a man openly talking of the sobriety he found while still cooking, and of how he manages to juggle the lofty heights of Brunswick House, Orasay, Cowley Manor, Henri, and his Selfridges café, all at once. However, I was met with a highly articulate, gentle soul who may be a heavyweight on the British food scene but who is nothing if not mild-mannered and utterly lovely in real life.
Jackson is, in his own words, “staunchly a Londoner, born and bred” but he has spent an enormous amount of time in Paris. As a young chef learning his way, he took endless day trips over on the Eurostar. “I’d get the 6am train, be there in time for a 9am pastry. I’d then grab an early lunch, spend the afternoon in a wine bar, have an early dinner and be on the 9pm train home again. I always say that London is where I learnt to cook but Paris is where I learnt to eat.”
The Parisian dining scene has had a profound influence on his style of cooking and the unrivalled attention to detail for which he is well known. Therefore, when Experimental Group asked him to get into the kitchen of Henri at the Henrietta Hotel in Covent Garden, it seemed the perfect collaboration. “It was nice to pay homage to the Experimental Group and their Parisian roots. I remember their London bar when it opened a decade or so ago. It was impossibly fun and chic and elegant, but also felt very contemporary, which is kind of how I think of Paris. It’s a city that manages to synthesise a coherent understanding of its past without losing its appetite for creativity.”
Jackson describes Paris as “probably my very favourite city in the world in which to eat.” Although he never formally trained there, its influence on him continues to run deep. “I’ve spent a lot of time in Paris. There was an incredible coterie of chefs moving there because of the amazing produce. Paris manages to stay concurrent with its history while also presenting real innovation and creativity. I do think London could benefit from fostering the same spirit of enterprise.” Moreover, when discussing his recent time in Paris for Henri, it comes as no surprise that it didn’t take much to convince him to get over there. “When The Experimental Group offered me the opportunity to get behind Henri, it seemed like an amazing way to reacquaint myself with probably my favourite city in the world to go out and eat in.”
Five Restaurant Recommendations in Paris by Jackson Boxer
Maison
“I always suggest Maison by chef Sota Atsumi first, even though it’s not always that easy to get a table. It’s in an old wine warehouse and hones in on his understanding of French technique while reflecting his Tokyo background. The food is remarkable, with an absurdly beautiful space that showcases Sota’s extraordinary culinary skills.”
Who comes here? Those who know of Sota’s amazing food, those who loved Clown Bar, and those who seek a humble and rustic dining experience.
Best table in the restaurant would be at the counter, allowing direct engagement with the chefs who are enthusiastic and clearly enjoy their craft.
Best time to go is lunch from Thursdays to Sundays and dinner from Wednesdays to Saturdays, although making a reservation can be a challenge.
Dish to order is the tasting menu. Maison could only really operate in Paris, especially at this price point, with its unique and creative offerings.
Le Rigmarole
“Le Rigmarole lies just east of the center of Paris and is run by Jessica Yang and Robert Compagnon, who creatively fuse classical French flavors with Japanese and South Asian influences.”
Who comes here? It is family-friendly, attracting diners of all ages, creating a warm, lively atmosphere.
Best table in the restaurant is at the counter where you can savor both the food and the surroundings.
Best time to go is Wednesday, Thursday, or Friday for the tasting menu.
Dish to order includes delicacies from the yakitori grill; trust the chefs to serve what they believe is best that day.
Cuisine
“Cuisine is an Izakaya style restaurant run by Benoit Simon and Takao Inazawa, combining hearty French dishes with profound Japanese influences.”
Who comes here? Local residents and those intrigued by the distinctive offerings.”
Best table in the restaurant is at any of the charmingly designed tables.
Best time to go is during weekdays or Friday nights, as it is closed on weekends.
Dish to order is the pigeon kareage.
Cheval D’or
“Cheval D’or is a cozy spot further east, run by four friends who explore Parisian Sichuanese cuisine through a central Asian lens.”
Who comes here? Locals looking for a break from traditional French cuisine.
Best table in the restaurant is near one of the large windows.
Best time to go is for dinner from Monday to Friday, ensuring vibrant evening dining experiences.
Dish to order is the roasted duck, a delightful reimagining of classic French dishes.
Quinsou
“Quinsou, led by Antonin Bonet, focuses on traditional French dining with minimal international influences, showcasing his technical talents in a more intimate setting.”
Who comes here? Diners from around the world, attracted by the restaurant’s accolades.
Best table in the restaurant is by the window, providing views of the bustling neighborhood.
Best time to go is lunch on Fridays and Saturdays, making for a delightful midday meal.
Dish to order features tasting menus with incredible dishes like pollack in champagne sauce with broccoli puree.
Henri is now open at 15 Henrietta Street, London, WC2.
