Summary
It is time for a camel safari in Jaisalmer, Rajasthan. Things are looking up!
We awoke bright and early to catch our desert safari tour in Jaisalmer, feeling excited to be on our way. A camel safari in Rajasthan was a significant item on our list of adventures that we wanted to experience in India.
Our driver was punctual, and we set out for the magnificent Thar Desert of India. The day was bright and sunny as we drove 30 km towards the Pakistan Border.
Upon arrival, we met our guides on the side of the road. After loading up the camels with food and water, we placed our packs on the horn of the saddle and hopped on.
Experience the Jaisalmer Desert Safari in Rajasthan
Fortunately, we had been on camels before, as our guides didn’t provide any instructions regarding what to do.
How to Get on a Camel
As a camel prepares to stand, lean back and hold on tightly. You will be thrown forward as the camel straightens its hind legs first.
Our Desert Safari Took a Turn for the Worse
Initially, we were pleased to have four camels and two guides. However, our enthusiasm waned once our jeep left.
As we started walking, one of our guides, named Bilal, walked in front of us while holding the reins instead of riding. It was just us, two of our four camels, and Bilal.
Curious about our missing guide, “Allep,” we asked why he wasn’t accompanying the other camels. Bilal assured us that he would arrive soon.
Thus, we walked along with Bilal, wondering what was taking so long.
Time to Voice Our Concerns
After some time, we expressed our dissatisfaction with being led through the desert instead of riding our camels.
We had specifically inquired if we would be riding our own camels, as we were not interested in a guided experience walking in front.
Bilal replied that once the other camels arrived, we would ride, explaining he needed to stretch his legs after traveling five hours from the camel camp that morning.
Continuing, but Growing Discontent
Eventually, when we paused for a break, we candidly addressed our concerns. We insisted on knowing the whereabouts of the other guide and communicated our desire to ride our own camels.
Bilal insisted that he was on his way and began making excuses about Allep’s absence, weaving stories that only raised our suspicions.
Feeling frustrated, we stopped beside the road and stated our intention to call the tour company and terminate the tour. This experience was not what we had signed up for, and we felt deceived.
Realization of a Possible Scam
Bilal changed his story regarding Allep’s absence several times:
- He was waiting for a friend.
- He was waiting for an Indian tourist—whatever that means.
- He was on his way but couldn’t locate us.
- He had a sick friend he needed to take to a nearby village.
- He claimed his brother was sick.
- His brother was so ill that he wouldn’t let Allep leave.
Acceptance of Allep’s Absence
In Asia, calling someone a liar often leads to cultural misunderstandings.
They have a concept of “saving face,” which makes confronting dishonesty complicated. However, I was beyond caring at this point. I confronted Bilal directly and stated we were contacting our tour company to exit the tour.
Bilal responded that this would be detrimental for him, but by this stage, we were indifferent. We had exhausted our patience with both incompetence and deceit.
We attempted to call our tour company, but there was no response. Our driver also failed to answer, despite us having paid a significant amount for his services.
Unbeknownst to Bilal, we were unable to reach anyone, so he assured us he would go to the village to retrieve our camel. He asked, “If I return with a camel after lunch, will you be happy?”
While we wouldn’t genuinely feel satisfaction, we accepted his proposition as we were stuck in the middle of the desert. An hour and a half later, he returned with a camel.
Reflecting on the Absurdity
It was quite surreal to find ourselves, a couple of tourists, deserted in the desert with two camels and an unexpectedly friendly goat.
Despite our comfort in the environment, I wondered how others would react to being left alone without a guide—definitely not a reassuring situation.
As it happened, Bilal had returned with a third camel from an unknown source.
We quickly loaded our saddles and continued our journey towards the sand dunes while the little goat followed us, bleating as long as it could.
Endurance Through a Long Day
The day began with excitement, only to be marred by dishonesty.
We encountered challenges, waited, and ultimately asserted ourselves to make the remainder of our time enjoyable.
Despite the previous conflicts, Bilal returned as if none of it had occurred, smiling, singing, and proclaiming his proficiency as a guide while emphasizing our supposed newfound happiness.
We smiled in return but found it harder to let go of our negative emotions compared to Bilal. That night was long and cold.
To his credit, Bilal was an exceptional cook!
He prepared delicious meals for breakfast, lunch, and dinner, featuring fresh vegetables, rice, chapatis, and boiled eggs with toast and jam for breakfast.
Bilal worked diligently. He cared for the camels, set up our camp, organized our gear, and kindled our fires. It was evident that other tours we observed had multiple guides sharing duties.
Bilal was managing everything alone.
Suspicions of a Larger Scheme
We may never discover what truly happened to Allep, but we suspected a side scheme was in play. With four camels available, it was easy to believe they could divide them into two tours, with numerous tourists being led by a guide walking in front.
Perhaps one of them was using our other two camels, for which we had already paid. They likely sold another tour simultaneously and pocketed the difference, which meant they didn’t need to share their tips.
Important Information
Camel safaris range from 600-1000 Rs depending on comfort level.
It gets cold at night, so bring a hat and warm clothing.
You will receive a blanket, but it may not be sufficient.
Bring a headlamp as it will be invaluable.
Opt for a tour that takes you out of Jaisalmer and away from the tourist trail.
Be diligent; while we don’t think it was our tour company’s fault, the issues seemed to stem from our guides. But we could be mistaken.
Ensure you have sunscreen, a hat, and a scarf to protect against the sun, especially during the hot desert days.
